My Portland 50 Re-envisioned, and others...

[Dobbs]

Thanks for the Rep, Andrew.

Have you seen my other posts on water current, and sailing tweaks? Also, we play a variation where the ships can be damaged on both sides.

[Bligh]

Do tell more about the damage Dobbs. Is it just that ships which collide take damage weather they are on the same side or not, or have you some deeper hidden tweak to the rules?
Rob.

[Dobbs]

Here's Courageous:

101 - Courageuse.pdf

[Dobbs]

There's a bit of extra information to process on those sheets, as I tweaked the way fire and flooding were done, and added a sail position option, but they could be used to play with the standard rules, to see what you think. Also, the crew chart is longer to reflect the ship's potential ability to absorb more damage.

[Bligh]

Thanks for that Dobbs.
I now have several questions about the playing with these charts, which I will hold off on for the present. I do like the way you have laid it all out. It seems to correct a lot of the things I do not like about the current Ship mats.
Rob.

[Dobbs]

Thanks for that Dobbs.
I now have several questions about the playing with these charts, which I will hold off on for the present. I do like the way you have laid it all out. It seems to correct a lot of the things I do not like about the current Ship mats.
Rob.

Ask me your questions, bridge keeper. I am not afraid.

[Bligh]

I can see your marking dots for weakening of guns and masts. How do you decide exactly which part takes the hit, or do you just start at the top and work down the ship?
What does the box for supplies indicate and how do you decide how much water you have on board etc, or is this just for campaigns? Finally do you plastic wrap the picture and use a dry wipe pen to indicate status?
If so how easy is it to keep changing the marks as guns change status or sailing speed is altered?
at what size do you print your mats out?
Thank you for your patience in my questions, but I have found problems with the markers on my more simple mats.
Rob.

[Dobbs]

I can see your marking dots for weakening of guns and masts. How do you decide exactly which part takes the hit, or do you just start at the top and work down the ship?
What does the box for supplies indicate and how do you decide how much water you have on board etc, or is this just for campaigns? Finally do you plastic wrap the picture and use a dry wipe pen to indicate status?
If so how easy is it to keep changing the marks as guns change status or sailing speed is altered?
at what size do you print your mats out?
Thank you for your patience in my questions, but I have found problems with the markers on my more simple mats.
Rob.

Basic damage is just like the original game, only mark from the top down instead of left to right. When a row has at least 1 point of damage, make a mark next to the broadside strength at that height to indicate that it is not available on that side. If both sides have damage to the same height, just cross out the appropriate broadside strength.

Supplies, water and all of the information in the lower left are for a campaign game I'm working on, so ignore for now.

I put the picture (ship chart) in a plastic sleeve and keep track of damage with a grease pencil (red - it's more dramatic). I print them on 8 and 1/2" x 11" sheets, so it takes up the full sheet.

I do sinking damage and fire differently. Here's an excerpt from the Special Damage section of my "Expanded Rules".

a) Sailors: A crew hit eliminates the leftmost intact column of crew/musketry.
b) Broken masts: Each time a broken mast chit is drawn, the player is required to change his following two maneuvers for single broken mast movement cards. If a player takes two mast hits in a single turn, he must still only play two broken mast movement cards before the crew clears the wreckage. After playing the second card, the player can proceed with playing normal maneuvers. Loss of the first row does not result in a potential speed reduction as the ship is jury-rigged. The loss of subsequent mast rows cannot be repaired, but the wreckage may be cleared and the ship’s maximum speed reduced by one for each mast row lost for the remainder of the game. A ship that has lost three rows must use the double mast lost cards to maneuver until the wreckage is cleared. A ship with no mast boxes left must strike its colors if the opponent positions his vessel outside the dismasted ship’s arc of fire and is still able to fire.
If a ship must use a red card while it is using the damaged mast cards for movement, the player draws a red card randomly.
c) Fire Damage: A fire damage hit is taken as the loss of hull hits equal to the ship’s Burden. The fire is extinguished next turn, but the damage cannot be repaired. The owning player may choose to distribute the individual points of damage on either side of the target ship. Each time a ship receives fire damage, a Fire special damage box is marked off. Any time a ship takes a fire damage hit after the last box has been marked off, it takes damage as usual, but the player must roll 1d6. On a roll of 5-6, the ship explodes and is destroyed.
d) Leak: A ship may take as many “Base” leak damage hits as half its Burden (round up). Subsequent leak hits are taken as Hull Damage equal to the ship’s Burden. The owning player may choose to distribute the individual points of damage on either side of the target ship.
e) Rudder Damage: When the first row of rudder damage is crossed off it decreases the ship’s veer value by one. When the second row of rudder hits is lost, the ship’s veer value is reduced by two and for two turns the ship must use the single broken mast cards to maneuver while the damage is jury rigged. Once repaired, the ship still has a -2 to its Veer rating. If a ship loses its third row of rudder hits, the ship must use the double broken mast cards to maneuver for the remainder of the game. A ship’s Veer Value cannot drop below 1.
f) Sail Damage: The first sail damage hit has no effect and is merely marked on the ship mat. On the second hit, the hit is indicated as a mast hit and the first sail damage mark is removed. In effect, a sail damage hit is half a mast hit, but without the use of broken mast cards. Further sail damage hits, after the first two, are treated the same way.

[Dobbs]

For sail changes, reloading, and general damage tweaking, every player is issued a half a paper towel for erasing.

Question for you, Rob. Does the rest of the world have metric paper sizes?

[Fabbe]

Thanks for the Rep, Andrew.

Have you seen my other posts on water current, and sailing tweaks? Also, we play a variation where the ships can be damaged on both sides.

I'm a bit late back to the party, but I saw the sailing tweaks, which I also found interesting. I noticed that you had blue markings for the schooners Ranger and Enterprise. What movement cards do you use for those? I like the water current cards too - I guess those could be used to represent the effect of strong winds as well? The damage to both sides is also an impressive improvement to the realism of the game. Since I'm still new to the game, I might gradually introduce these things as I get more familiar with it.

[Bligh]

Dobbs' ship charts in post 19 are well worth taking a look at Andrew.
Rob.

[Dobbs]

I'm a bit late back to the party, but I saw the sailing tweaks, which I also found interesting. I noticed that you had blue markings for the schooners Ranger and Enterprise. What movement cards do you use for those? I like the water current cards too - I guess those could be used to represent the effect of strong winds as well? The damage to both sides is also an impressive improvement to the realism of the game. Since I'm still new to the game, I might gradually introduce these things as I get more familiar with it.

The Blue arc on schooners is to represent that they are not good at running before the wind. If the schooner is in the Blue arc, the player uses the orange movement at the next wind speed down. If the schooner is moving at Backing Sails already, then the player moves the forward edge of the base to the back of the Full Sails orange.