My 17th Century Ships - so far

[ShadowDragon]

My 17th century fleet to date:

Ships painted as Portuguese: all Langton ships. Models used are a British 4th rate (48-56 guns), a Carrack and a "Spanish" Carrack




Ships painted as Dutch: Models used are Ark Royal yacht, Langton 60-gun Dutch, Ark Royal generic 40-gun, Langton Dutch 30-gun and two Langton Dutch Pinas (20-28 guns)




Ships painted as English: all Ark Royal ships. Models are a flush deck 50-gun and a a generic 60-gun painted as Robert Blake's flagship




Ships painted as English: all Ark Royal ships. Models are a generic 40-gun and a generic 70-gun painted as Prince Rupert's flagship




Ships painted as English and not yet rigged: all Ark Royal ships. Models are the Resolution (flying Commonwealth flags) and the Royal Sovereign (flying Admiral of the Fleet flags)




Ships painted as English and not yet rigged: All Ark Royal ships. Models are armed merchantmen - a 4-gun, 2 26-gun and a 6 gun ship.

[Bligh]

Thanks for adding these ships to the showcase Paul, and what a fine sight they all make sailing together.

Rob.

[ShadowDragon]

Thanks for adding these ships to the showcase Paul, and what a fine sight they all make sailing together.

Rob.

Thanks for the rep, Rob. I'll replace the last two photos once the ships are fully rigged. The photos are a result of not being satisfied with my iphone 14 pro max photos and digging out my decade old Samsung NX10 digital camera. I have a tiltable flash attachment for the NX10 so I can bounce the flash off the ceiling which gives a more natural downward light. I find that using the flash on the iphone results in bright, colour destroying light bouncing off the models. The iphone does work well without a flash, even in dim light, but then shadows end up too bright which looks weird to me. So the photos were a test and I was delighted with them. The main problem with the digital when recording a game for SoG or WoG is that when I make a gaming error and have to backtrack to an earlier move it's difficult to do that with the NX10. Maybe I'll use both for future games - the iphone for an immediate record used to correct errors and the NX10 for publication.

[Bligh]

Interesting Paul, because I have just had my electrician in to wall mount spot lights by my Wargames table so that I can bounce light off the walls and ceiling for the very same reason.

Rob.

[ShadowDragon]

Interesting Paul, because I have just had my electrician in to wall mount spot lights by my Wargames table so that I can bounce light off the walls and ceiling for the very same reason.

Rob.

I'll be interested in before and after photos to see how it works out.

[Bligh]

I can't show you any before photos from before Paul because I have been deleting the ones from before but the after ones are like this.

[ShadowDragon]

I can't show you any before photos from before Paul because I have been deleting the ones from before but the after ones are like this.

Those look good, Rob, and have a similarity to my photos above. What sea mat are you using? Mine are Deep Cut Studios Atlantic ones. I might have preferred their Caribbean ones but I also wanted the coastal one which is made to match the Atlantic one.

[Bligh]

I think mine is also a DeepCut one. If I recall it could well be the Med one. I have had it for quite a few years now. My Wings one with clouds is certainly a DeepCut one.

Rob.

[ShadowDragon]

I think mine is also a DeepCut one. If I recall it could well be the Med one. I have had it for quite a few years now. My Wings one with clouds is certainly a DeepCut one.

Rob.

Correction - my is called "Water World" by Deep Cut, but they may have changed the name. It looks the same as yours. The Caribbean one looks to be more of a teal colour, but computer screens can be deceiving.

[Bligh]

I looked at the Caribbean mat under magnification and like the rather choppy sea option Paul.