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Thread: Discussion about the game bases

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
    Since the ships will be in the stores in a few months, it's a little late to ask why they did certain things. I've already ordered some thin clear light blue bases with plans to use clear printed labels.
    As far as I know, the masts, deck and hull are put together as one piece.

    Ed Age 72
    Hi Ed,
    I have been asking about the bases for a long time on this site, SOG Ya-hoo groups, TMP naval site and privately on-line. Keith is the first person in the know who has answered me. I now understand the why's! I like your idea, but watch out that your ships do not look as if they are flying and not floating. I tryed a clear base (5mm) for my harbour and it looked so high of the table it looked all wrong! If I buy this game (Looks 50/50 at this time) I need too know so I can do as you are doing and rig them I still think most gamers (not Hobbyish) could do a little sticking themselfs for a better look to the game from the box.
    Be safe
    Rory
    Last edited by Devsdoc; 04-06-2013 at 21:15.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Royal Hajj View Post
    Please keep in mind these are preproduction versions of the ship. The actual sculpt is one level below production (they have added more details) and the paint work is several levels below production standards (and beat up from all the handling, they are my work horses for other products) and these, from what I understand, were used to confirm the locations of different colors, not the final colors/level of detail or crispness. The base is also a level or two below production.]

    Thanks Keith,
    Think I could work with this. A little hard to rig the fore mast no sides to drill into, but room to add small rings. This is workerable

    Be safe
    Rory

  3. #53

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    Hello Rory,

    The bases I'm talking about are 1/8" acrylic. My main concern is how the transparent ink labels will show up on the light blue bases. I'll find out in a couple of weeks.
    If you like naval wargaming, I think you'll love SoG. So many ways to go with the ships and rules. And if you haven't, get in on the kickstarter before the 16th for some great perks.

    Ed

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
    Hello Rory,

    The bases I'm talking about are 1/8" acrylic. My main concern is how the transparent ink labels will show up on the light blue bases. I'll find out in a couple of weeks.
    If you like naval wargaming, I think you'll love SoG. So many ways to go with the ships and rules. And if you haven't, get in on the kickstarter before the 16th for some great perks.

    Ed

    Hi Ed,
    I too I'm looking forward to see your bases Could you post them here when they are done? I should not say this but I have so much time and money tied up in my 1/1200 ships and shore-lines. I have just cut out a 4ft plan shore line into two matching 1/2's, will start painting it soon. I think I would buy a Starter Set only for Christmas/Brithday to see what I could use? So kickstarter is not the way for me and the added cost for living in the U.K. Hopefully I can sail in your wake and enjoy your enjoyment 2nd hand of this new game. I look forward to seeing and talking more to you.
    Be safe
    Rory

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Royal Hajj View Post
    Please keep in mind these are preproduction versions of the ship. The actual sculpt is one level below production (they have added more details) and the paint work is several levels below production standards (and beat up from all the handling, they are my work horses for other products) and these, from what I understand, were used to confirm the locations of different colors, not the final colors/level of detail or crispness. The base is also a level or two below production.
    Sail to spar molding details show up well in your photos and answer a lot of questions.
    The ships look to be pretty much impervious to damaging from handling by the yards.
    Jib connection points do look to be a bit fragile though.

  6. #56
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    Nice detailed shots!!

    I for one do not mind if the bases are a bit on the thick side. There are many other miniature games that also have thick bases. I know X-Wing does to accommodate the card that is placed in the base to identify the model.

    What is the planned thickness of the production base compared to other types like the stock Wings base or the fine bases you produce for the Aerodrome?

    Thanks


  7. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by Devsdoc View Post
    Hi Ed,
    I too I'm looking forward to see your bases Could you post them here when they are done? I should not say this but I have so much time and money tied up in my 1/1200 ships and shore-lines. I have just cut out a 4ft plan shore line into two matching 1/2's, will start painting it soon. I think I would buy a Starter Set only for Christmas/Brithday to see what I could use? So kickstarter is not the way for me and the added cost for living in the U.K. Hopefully I can sail in your wake and enjoy your enjoyment 2nd hand of this new game. I look forward to seeing and talking more to you.
    Be safe
    Rory
    The mfg said it would be two weeks before they can ship them, but if you PM your address, I'll mail one to you when they come in.

  8. #58
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    I'm considering trying to reinforce the jibs on mine by rigging those "free-floating" sails up front with wire instead of thread.

  9. #59
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    There is surprisingly quite a bit of plastic at the jib connection. As long as your are not picking the ship up and man handling it by the jib, I don't think it's going to be an issue. I was really impressed with how Ares designed these ships, very robust.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Royal Hajj View Post
    Please keep in mind these are preproduction versions of the ship.
    The vast majority of SOG players will, I am sure, be 100% happy with these "out of the box". For others, simply painting in the spars and a thin brown/black wash will do wonders. Rigging would be easier if some of the bulwarks were a bit higher, but some of Rod's ships were examples of types with minimalist forward bulwarks, so a dab of glue and the thread held down with a knife point there I think.

    But I'm currently wondering whether to do any of that. If i'm using these a lot for demo/parti games at wargame shows I'm thinking I should maintain the "out of the box" aspect so that prospective purchasers will see what they are actually going to get. Any thoughts on that?

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Barrelman View Post
    Nice detailed shots!!

    I for one do not mind if the bases are a bit on the thick side. There are many other miniature games that also have thick bases. I know X-Wing does to accommodate the card that is placed in the base to identify the model.

    What is the planned thickness of the production base compared to other types like the stock Wings base or the fine bases you produce for the Aerodrome?

    Thanks

    Hi Ted,
    Yes you are right, for planes you can have a thick base it is not a part of the model. you see just the plane on a see-through stick Unlike the ship that sits right on it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
    The mfg said it would be two weeks before they can ship them, but if you PM your address, I'll mail one to you when they come in.
    Hi Ed,
    Will do thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondback View Post
    I'm considering trying to reinforce the jibs on mine by rigging those "free-floating" sails up front with wire instead of thread.
    Hi Diamondback,
    I think it will be O.K. See my post on this thread #30 I think the mast and jib are more likely to bend on a metal ship than SOG plastic one's. Rigging wth thread will hold it just like the real thing. Wire is overkill and may damage the model.

    Be safe All
    Rory

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Manley View Post
    The vast majority of SOG players will, I am sure, be 100% happy with these "out of the box". For others, simply painting in the spars and a thin brown/black wash will do wonders. Rigging would be easier if some of the bulwarks were a bit higher, but some of Rod's ships were examples of types with minimalist forward bulwarks, so a dab of glue and the thread held down with a knife point there I think.

    But I'm currently wondering whether to do any of that. If i'm using these a lot for demo/parti games at wargame shows I'm thinking I should maintain the "out of the box" aspect so that prospective purchasers will see what they are actually going to get. Any thoughts on that?
    I think you raise a valid point: marketing at conventions, etc. It would probably be a good idea to keep, at the minimum, some ships in their original state. Based on what I have seen with friends playing WoG, many, if not most, causal players will like the ships as is very much. If Keith's photos are below grade, then the finished products should look fairly good. For those who don't model, they will look great.

  13. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by David Manley View Post
    The vast majority of SOG players will, I am sure, be 100% happy with these "out of the box". For others, simply painting in the spars and a thin brown/black wash will do wonders. Rigging would be easier if some of the bulwarks were a bit higher, but some of Rod's ships were examples of types with minimalist forward bulwarks, so a dab of glue and the thread held down with a knife point there I think.

    But I'm currently wondering whether to do any of that. If i'm using these a lot for demo/parti games at wargame shows I'm thinking I should maintain the "out of the box" aspect so that prospective purchasers will see what they are actually going to get. Any thoughts on that?
    That's why you need two of everything. One for show (rigging etc) and one for go (out of the box).

  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Manley View Post
    The vast majority of SOG players will, I am sure, be 100% happy with these "out of the box". For others, simply painting in the spars and a thin brown/black wash will do wonders. Rigging would be easier if some of the bulwarks were a bit higher, but some of Rod's ships were examples of types with minimalist forward bulwarks, so a dab of glue and the thread held down with a knife point there I think.

    But I'm currently wondering whether to do any of that. If i'm using these a lot for demo/parti games at wargame shows I'm thinking I should maintain the "out of the box" aspect so that prospective purchasers will see what they are actually going to get. Any thoughts on that?
    Hi David,
    I think your right on all counts. I glue a very small ring to the hull from a small link chain I have onto the model before painting, on some of Rods ships eg NR1 Mizzen mast. I tried the knife bit and got most of the thread glued to the knife and cocktail-stick I used. How do you do that? I would make the SOG ships for me. Saying this is what you could do with them. If I was showing a "Out of the box" aspect at domo/parti game. I would ask what % are you getting and use Ares models? Hard, but life!
    Be safe
    Rory

  15. #65

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    I'm glad to see they're durable. That's what I want. I might add rigging to the jibs just because it looks a bit weird having them go into nothingness. I'm thinking rig the jibs, ratlines...call it a day. Ratlines add SO much and should be easy to do.

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