My 3D Printer has arrived - But I am out of town!
So my 3D printer has arrived!
But I am out of town on business...
While anxiously waiting to return and unpack it, I have started working on what will be my first project once I have my "3D Legs" under me.
This is a vector drawing I made from an old lines drawing I had. I will import this to my 3D software and start modeling today.
Pictures of 3D printer to follow.
Bruce, it will be exciting to see your work. Thanks for sharing with us.
Update - Lines Imported to Maya
The lines drawings have been imported into Maya and aligned.
Keel, Stem, and Half Hull Frames in Place
The Keel, Stem, and half hull frames have now been "lofted".
Actually, in the virtual 3D modeling world scale is completely maleable so no lofting is necessary. Frames can just be traced at full size.
No caulking will be necessary either.
There will, however, be a lot of fairing to do...
Interesting stuff Bruce. You could possibly have ships in production before Ares! You might even corner the market ;)
No Production Plans... Yet
I really don't know where I am going with this, but I thought that it might be worthwhile for the group if I documented the creation of a ship from hull line drawings to finished model.
I have not used my new 3D printer yet (I have not even opened the box) so I do not know how long it will take me to get up to speed with the technology.
I have also not done any casting, in any medium, of anything this detailed, small, and complex, so I don't know how that will go either.
On the plus side I have spent many hours building wooden ship models from kits from Mantua, Mamoli, and the like so I am not completely new to this process (hey, most of the top end wooden ship model kit makers seem to be Italian too, hmmm).
It will be an adventure. I can't wait to see how it all goes.
I think this is very informative. At present, I, for one, am pretty ignorant of ship design and terminology, so I am really looking forward to working through your posts. Thank you for doing and sharing this.
Are you Italian?Originally Posted by RichardPF
Actually, I am not. But the Ares Games folks are.
Got it. Saw you just joined the Aerodrome as well - two great places.
Yes, it seems kind of weird to me. My two big time interests have always been WWI aviation and Napoleonic era ships and here they both are so closely connected. Amazing…
It was the same with me. When I saw Series 1 and 2 WWI Wings of War aircraft, with WWI aviation being one of my greatest interests, I had to have them. In trying to find news about future releases, I came upon the Aerodrome. After lurking there for a while I saw what a great bunch of people were on the site and joined up. When it came out that Sails of Glory, about Napoleonic era naval warfare...my other favorite subject, I couldn't believe it.
3D Printer - OUT OF THE BOX!!!
So my work week has come to an end (more or less) and I finally got a chance to unpack the 3D printer.
This is the Second generation Cube printer from 3D Systems, a company that seems to be taking over the 3D printer market through both growth and acquisition.
The box as it arrived in the shipping box sitting on a table in my garage.
Top of the box open...
The box contained the printer and three extra spools of plastic.
When you buy the printer there is a special deal that 3D Systems offers at the time of purchase for three extra spools of plastic and some object designer software. It was really too good an add on deal for me to pass up.
Total price for the printer, extra plastic & software deal, and shipping to Arizona was just under $1,600.
After releasing a couple of clips, the top of the box lifts off to reveal the printer.
It is very well packed.
When you lift the printer out of the box, you will find a lower box section full of goodies.
The first item that you remove is the base where the 3D objects come to life (on the left sitting on the plastic spool boxes).
But wait! There's more...
The remaining contents of the bottom of the box include a USB cable, a USB thumb drive (you can pass object files to the printer using either method or by WiFi), a power supply and cord, another spool of line (neon green), a small bottle of goop that you use to prep the base so the 3D model stays put while it is being built, an interesting tool of some kind, and a manual. The printer also comes with 25 credits to download object files from the 3D Systems library.
OK, that's about it for now. While the manual is more like a pamphlet, I am someone who does RTFM.
More to come.
I am pretty curious to see how this works. If you don't mind sharing, it would be interesting to see the process in play as well as the final output. Thanks for the pics.
Nice! I've been looking into stereolithography as an aid to both my scale-modeling and gunsmithing hobbies... like a new rotor hub for a speculative "CH-53E Super Stallion On Steroids" or new weapons pylons for an up-armed "Super Prowler" conversion of an EA-6B.
If you can find the lines diagrams, this might be JUST the ticket for some of the real pain-in-the-arse one-of-a-kind ships that fill key niches in the Orders of Battle for the great engagements, but as oddballs are likely to go without official Ares sculpts. :)
Cant wait to see it in action. I have numerous 3d aircraft from Shapeways, so I think the technology to do hulls will be quite successful, the masts and sails may need to be done separately on a model like sprue.
3D Printer Setup part 1
So Now I have read the instruction manual/pamphlet and am ready to continue...
Out of the box, the Cube printer is close to completely assembled and ready to go.
3D Systems is really trying to make this a consumer friendly product.
The platform on which the 3D objects will be born is a thick piece of glass that is frosted on one side.
The glass platform comes packed in the bottom of the Cube box in a very serious foam enclosure to keep it safe (shown in an earlier photo).
There is a plastic rectangle with a clipped corner attached to the non frosted side of the glass.
The key is placed in a matching receptacle on the machine. The shape of the key makes attachment mistake proof.
There are no mechanical fasteners, the glass plate stays in place through gravity and magnetism.
The next step is to bring up the 3D Systems website and register your cube.
http://www.cubify.com/cube/
The first step is to create an account and login.
Once logged in, select Activate My Cube.
A page where you will enter your cube serial number is displayed.
You will need the serial number of the cube to activate it.
It is found on the back next to the power connection.
(The cube does not need to be powered up just yet, though the instructions do say to do it now)
Last edited by RichardPF; 03-02-2013 at 20:10.
3D Printer Setup part 2
And the beat goes on...
Once you have entered your cube serial number you will be given an activation code for your printer (not 0000).
This page also includes links to download the Cube software (either Windows or MAC), the 25 free object files, and another users guide/manual
The Cube software for Windows includes exe and msi files.
The 25 object files (.creation extension)
And a 60 page users guide/manual
The manual is a pdf file which could be read from the screen but I chose to print it out.
You may have noticed in the background of some of these images that while my garage does not contain any cars, it does include a rather oversized laser printer (Canon imageRUNNER ADVANCE 8085)
Some of the information duplicates what is in the manual/pamphlet that came with the cube, but it is a good bit more substantial.
So now I am back in RTFM mode.
More to come.
Bruce, your garage is better equipped than most offices I've seen!
I think most of us here are as eager as you are to see the results Bruce. The wait for the next installment is almost too much. :D
Sorry for the delay in posting the next update; it's that annoying work thing getting in the way again!
Ahh. I don't have to worry about that for a few weeks, or even months, yet. :o
Very nice. I can't wait to see how it prints for you. I wish I had your patience and skill.
Meanwhile, Back in the Virtual 3D World...
I am finally getting back to working with my 3D printer and continuing to work on something of my own design for it to print.
I will be posting more 3D Printer updates as soon as I can select the pictures and get them in order. In the meantime, I have planked the 3D hull.
Continuing the 3D Printer Story
Picking up the 3D Printer setup and first operation story from a week or so ago...
The next step is to install the software that lets you build files for and talk to the Cube printer.
The install setup was quite conventional.
And went off without a hitch.
The software interface is a little odd, but fairly easy to master.
The colors are a little funky, but there are no menus to deal with.
The Colors button opens a window that lets you change many of the colors in the system.
I changed the background to white.
Next you import a file to print.
Most 3D printers accept files with a .stl extension (Stereolithography)
I will talk morfe about that when I describe building objects from your own designs.
The cube software also accepts files with a .creation extension.
That is the format of the objects you get with the cube.
The virtual object will be imported and placed in the view.
The print space is about 5 inches on each side.
It is generally best if the objects are positioned and sized before they are brought into the Cube software but they can be reconfigured here.
I will start with that in the next installment (which should be Friday)
3D Printer Story Continues...
When we left our story, I was in the middle of describing the functions of the 3D Printer software.
It is probably best that you configure the object to be printed in another software package,
but the cube software does have some configuration capability.
At the top center of the screen is a button that lets you orient and scale the object.
Clicking this button opens a control window that lets you set these parameters.
There are three sections (window/overlays) to this control.
The first lets you rotate the object to be printed along any axis using either the dials or the text entry boxes at the bottom.
The second screen lets you translate the object around the base.
While you would probably want to position a single object in the center of the base, the printer can (space permitting) print multiple objects.
This control lets you arrange the objects in the print space.
The last control screen lets you scale the object withing the bounds of the print space.
The controls on the bottom left let you view the object from set viewing positions.
You can also click and drag in the window to free form rotate the view.
These controls rotate the view, not the object.
The settings button lets you set the system to print an object either solid, hollow, or with internal bracing (strong) which is between the two.
You can also select the type of filament to be used (ABS or PLA plastic), which generation cube you have (mine is 2nd gen).
You can also set the system to create Rafts and Supports.
Rafts are a lattice base that you can create as a foundation for building your model. One of the problems with 3D printing is getting the object to hold fast to the base so that the object builds correctly. Rafts help that happen. Once the object is complete, the rafts can be detatched.
Another problem with 3D printing is that a structure must be placed on something. At the base this is not a problem, but higher up on the model it is. Creating the horizontal top of a window opening is problematic. When you turn on supports, the system automatically adds easily detachable support structures to the object so that horizontal and near horizontal structure sections can be built.
When the object has been configured as you want, select the build icon/button at the top of the screen.
The system will prompt you for a name and a location for this file.
The file will be created with a .cube extension.
This is the native format for the cube printer.
The file will be configured to your settings and saved.
Rafts and supports will be added is requested.
The software will create a build plan for the object.
Finally, the software will let you know how long it will take the cube to run the job and print the object.
3D printing takes some time. The finer resolution and the bigger the object the more time.
Start Trek replicators these are not.
The 23rd century this is not (that almost sounded a bit Yoda-ish).
More to come...
Hey Yoda (;)) this is looking good and is very informative. Like you looking to see the first object produced.
Bruce, this is very informative. I know everyone who is following these posts is dreaming of you printing ships and showing us your work.
When you actually set the printer for a job, would it be possible to film it in action?
Very cool stuff.
This is GREAT,always wondered how these work,keep them coming and thanks
very informative thanks i want one now lol
3D Printer Story Continues to Continue...
Now that the object file is ready to print, the next thing to do is to send the file to the 3D Printer.
With the Cube, this can be done in two ways. The most interesting is through a Wi Fi connection.
With the Cube powered up, if you open the list of Wi Fi connections available, you will find a listing for the cube.
Select it and connect.
Back in the Cube software, click the Configure button/icon.
A list of available connections will appear.
(At the 3D Systems office, this list must be interesting!)
Select the connection you want and click the connect button.
The software will test the connection and report the results.
We now have a connection to the printer and at least one .cube file ready to print.
Press the Print button in the upper right of the interface screen.
(The alternative would be to save the file to a USB thumb drive, to do that you would press the save button at the bottom of the screen.)
After pressing the Print button (or the Save button), a window opens where you navigate to the file you wish to print.
In our case, that file is called RookPLA.cube. Select it and press the Open button.
And we're off! The software sends the file to the printer to be printed.
That process will be detailed in the next update.
3D Printer - Back (track) to the Printer
In the last installment, we set up the file in the software and sent it to the 3D printer through the Wi Fi Connection.
If the printer is ready to go, the object will start printing now.
There are, however, a few last setup items that you need to do to the printer every now and then.
Before we see the object start printing, let's look at them.
It is important that the head of the printer be at the right height.
The cube setup (and the setup for most other 3D printers of this type)
Say to do this by setting the head just more than a regular thickness sheet of paper distance from the print surface.
Some other docs I have seen recommend using two paper thicknesses.
In actual distance, 0.1mm to 0.15mm seems about where this lands.
The filament for the cube line of printers comes in cartridges.
The cartridge has a setscrew with a red plastic head that keeps the spool from unraveling inside the cartridge.
Before you load the cartridge, you remove this setcrew.
Save this screw. If you change print colors you replace the screw in the cartridge that you remove.
The cartridge also has a contact at the bottom that lets it communicate with the cube.
The main function of this is to let the cube know which type of filament (ABS or PLA) is in the cartridge.
The type of filament used will change set the way the print head functions so that it is optimized for that material.
The cartridge is placed into a receptacle in the Cube.
The filament is threaded through a hollow plastic tube and into the top of the print head.
Once the cartridge has been installed, the cube draws the filament into the head, melts it, and extrudes it out the bottom in a very fine semi liquid thread.
When extruded, the thread is very hot.
The filament will extrude for about a foot.
Before the object is printed, the glass plate is coated with the special sticky material that comes with the cube.
This helps hold the object in place as it is being built.
THIS IS THE POINT AT WHICH YOU DIRECT THE SOFTWARE TO SEND THE ITEM TO THE CUBE TO BE PRINTED
OR, USE THE TOUCH PANEL ON THE CUBE TO SELECT THE ITEM TO BE PRINTED FROM A USB THUMB DRIVE
The head will move to a position close to the printing surface and do final heat regulation.
At long last our object starts printing.
Remember the software calculated the time to print this object as about an hour and a half.
The object printing will continue (and conclude) in the next update...
The 3D Object Appears! (finally)
In this installment the 3D object finally appears.
This has not all gone as cleanly as possible.
You may notice that the nice cover is no longer on the print head.
Also, the filament is now white.
More on that later...
The object builds from the bottom up.
It does this in repeated steps by setting down a layer of structure and then lowering the build platform a fraction of a milimeter.
At this point, the inner structure of the "Strong" configuration (half way between hollow and solid) is visible.
The object build is mezmorizing.
The low detail in this image is more a result of the flash than the object.
As the object build continues, the stone block surface structure of the rook becomes apparent.
Creating a completely smooth surface with this type of printer is really not possible.
The best you will get is a woven cloth type look so it is best to build objects that have some surface texture anyway.
A slightly different angle that shows the surface detail a bit better as the object builds.
Notice that the top of the doorway opening is arched. This is not just a coincidence but rather a design built to work around the elevated horizontal surface bottom limitation of this type of printer.
Extending a surface out over empty space can be done to a limited degree without supports.
Think of this like stacking bricks. You can offset a higher course to a degree to create an arch or inverted pyramid type structure.
Just about done.
The rook includes a double helix and spiral staircase on the inside as part of this single piece.
These are viewable through the windows.
It would be almost impossible to create an inner structure of this type any other way.
When the print run finished, the build platform lowers away from the print head.
The cube display will tell you to wait while the system cools.
Notice the bit of filament still attached to the top of the rook.
This can be brushed away easily.
The glue that is used to keep the object in place as it builds is water soluable.
The official way to remove the object is to place the object and build platform in warm water for a few minutes.
The object will then either float free or can be easily detacted.
The build platform is then cleaned of any residual glue to make it ready for the next run.
Placing the right amount of glue on the build platform is a learned skill.
It is actually easier to put too much on than too little.
It should also be done just before the object is built to get the right amount of tackiness.
In the next installment, I will talk about some of the dark side of 3D printing and what happened to the print head cover and why the filament changed color.
Simply brilliant and clear explanation of the whole process, well done.
3D Printer - Results and Problems So Far
So an object has now been printed successfully.
Of the 25 object files tha come with the printer, I found the chess rook to be the most visually interesting.
That is part of the reason I used it for the initial tests.
The other is that it is a game object.
When you purchase the printer, you get an option to buy three additional filament containers in your choice of colors.
The ones that I selected were Red White and Blue (or Blue White and Red if you prefer).
The printer also comes with a container of neon green filament.
I tested printing with each of these with mixed results.
The rook printed in each of the four colors.
The sparkly hilights are just an artfact of the camera flash reflection.
Looking down on the blue rook, you can see the top of the spiral staircase emerging from the center of the object.
You can also see the result of printing a flat or smooth surface. While the surface will never be mistaken for an injection molded piece, the surface does actually seem to me to resemble decking.
One other object that I printed was this tea cup.
I included this image because it demonstrates two things:
It shows the support structure that the software builds when it is asked to traverse a large horizoltal-ish span (inside and below the handle). This support structure is actually only slightly attached and can be readily removed. The detachment points can then be shaved/filed/sanded/whatever.
This object also gives a look at what you get from trying to model a smooth surface. The flash exagerates the surface detail a bit. In real life it does have a satiny woven material look to it.
Now for the Dark Side
All print runs did not go so well.
A number of the attempts were not successful.
This was always reported by the cube as a filament flow error.
The run would abort and you would be left with a partial object.
Yes, the neon green filament was the main source of these errors though it did happen once with another color.
The cube comes with a piece of piano wire and instructions on how to clear the clogs that often happen when a fail of this type happens.
I found it far easier to clean the print head with the pretty cover off, and eventually just wound up leaving it off.
Even the "successful" green run almost aborted due to filament flow issues(top of the base) and would have to be considered a fail.
All of this clogging and failing resulted in numerous emails and a call or two with the US based 3D Systems tech support folks.
In the end, they decided to send me another print head.
The new print head, along with instructions for replacing the old head arrived today.
I have yet to swap the heads but will report from the far side of this change shortly.
Judging from the comments on the boards of various 3D printer models, filament flow problems are common in the 3D printer world and more common at the low cost printer end of the market.
If I am able to change the head and get the printer reliably operational, I will probably go ahead and buy another head just to have as a spare.
Awesome. Absolutely awesome.
As for the tea cup, I thought the support was part of the design - towers somewhat Lord of the Rings-ish. Shows how much I know.
In the Meantime...
New printer head has been installed and the printer is chewing on a new project.
I will have a full update on that tomorrow.
In the meantime:
Decks and spars added to 3D Model.
Are you going to try to print this as a single item, or rather do a separate print run for the masts etc, maybe on a sprue?
This is a fascinating tour of the 3D printer. Really looking forward to more episodes and to the time when you print a ship.
Thanks for the interest, comments, and other acknowledgements, I really appreciate it.
I'm sure that I will need to separate the ship into multiple pieces.
I will probably wind up doing a number of tests to see what detail level can be held and what is the best way to configure the parts.
I stil have sails, gunports and other hull detals, deck details, and a bit more to add.
I had origininally been thinking of one piece for the hull and one for each mast/sail group similar to how the white metal models are cast.
One tricky element that I really want to include in the printed model is the fighting top platform on each mast.
Since the fighting tops are at 90 degree angles to the line of the masts and sails, positioning the mast/sail structure on the build platform will be a challenge.
I have no idea how I will get that to work without splitting the ship model into a much larger number of parts.
Thanks!
I am too.
It is going to take a while for me to get to that point. The print head problem derailed things for a while but it looks like all is back on line now.
Thanks!
The first object that I chose to build to test the new print head has a good deal more of that support structure going on.
It's kind of funny. The process takes an our or more to play out, and I know what the thing will look like in the end but it is still mezmorizing.
I can imagine. Looking at your in-process pics was pretty cool.
Concerning the chess piece, how hard, brittle, heavy is it? How much does it cost in terms of materials?
You have created a fascinating thread Bruce.
The Cube printers will print with both ABS and PLA plastic.
The plastic filament that I have been using is the PLA.
My understaning is that PLA holds detail better but is not as tough as the ABS.
The printed objects are quite hard, but do not seem to be anywhere near as brittle as resin cast objects.
As built, the objects are also extremely light.
I am sure that is in part due to the fact that I use the "strong" option when setting up the files for the parts I have created so far.
The strong options creates parts with the honeycomb inside structure.
My best guess, based on somewhat limited experience is that the material used for one of the rooks costs about two dollars.
The material for a ship model in the scale we are talking about might cost a bit more than that, but not a lot.
If you were trying to do this commercially, my guess is that the amortization of the equipment would be a significant cost factor.
You would likely want to use higher cost equipment and, as fast as this technology is moving, I expect that the economic life of a commercial grade 3D printer will be far less than the potential functional life.
Stupid question... will Cube's software convert a SketchUp .SKP into a .STL? The new eight-blade rotor hub I referred to above is a SketchUp file, mainly because I haven't learned solid-modeling yet. (AutoCAD/DraftSight and SketchUp I'm comfortable with, Solidworks scared the crap out of me and I uninstalled it.)
Why would that be a stupid question?
The quick answer is no, the Cube software does not accept or convert .SKP files.
Hunting around I did find some third party solutions that do this (or rather multiple step processes), but none of the ones I found appeared that stable.
If you have SketchUp Pro you can export to a number of file formats that are easier for the outside world to convert to .STL such as OBJ, FBX, and others.
You can also get a free 30 day license to 3D Studio Max which does export directly to .stl files and you may find more approachable given the software with which you are already familiar, though that would mean remodeling your object.
New 3D Print Head Installed and Tested!
So I installed the new print head.
The instructions could have been a bit clearer, but the part was amazingly easy to swap.
The process, from start to finish with me triple checking everything took no more than 15 minutes.
As a first test, I went to the Cube site and downloaded one of the objects that they have available there.
There was one object that I found quite inetresting.
The design was such that it would need a significant amount of support structure and should be built using a raft.
It was also far larger than any object that I had printed so far.
I figured it would be a good example to post here - success or failure.
So far so good!
The printer starts placing the filament on the glass...
First cross hatch of raft complete.
The raft is an extra structure that you can add to the base to help it stay on the build surface.
3D Systems says that you can "get away" without adding a raft by using the glue, but with such a large object I wanted to be safe.
Raft complete and the first layer of the base is added.
Object base taking shape with the familiar honeycomb inside.
The base is round. The structures at the side of the base are part of the support structure. We will see lots more of that as the build continues.
Base complete.
You can see the support structure attachment points at the sides of the base.
Attached in this way theoretically allows the supports to be broken (or cut) away more easily when the object is complete.
As the build extends above the base, the support structure really kicks it up a notch.
The support structure now completely surrounds the top of the base.
Substantially more object height complete.
Support structure continues on all sides.
Object nearing completion.
It can now be seen what the support structures were supporting.
Object complete.
The build ran without a hitch.
This build was about 5 hours.
I pushed the envelope a bit to test the new print head as this was the longest build and the largest object I have yet attempted.
I did not want to press my luck to the point of doing the first test of the new head with the neon green filament that proved so troublesome with the old head.
I'll save that test for a bit later.
In the next update I will remove the supports and reveal the object.
Last edited by RichardPF; 03-18-2013 at 01:48.
So did you watch this for 5 hours...?
This is pretty cool. It is neat to see how it incorporates support structures. Looking forward to seeing finished product.
Actually, no.So did you watch this for 5 hours...?
I Just checked in on it every hour or so to make sure it was still building correctly and to take a picture to post here.
And the object is...
So I spent about 10 minutes removing the support structures.
To do this right, I would want to spend about another half hour or more trimming and sanding the attachment points to clean the structure up a bit more.
Printed object with supports removed.
This example aslo shows you how a completely smooth and flat object surface of significant size would look on a printed object.
Printed objects that have surfaces like this are generally finished by painting and sanding.
Sometimes the painting is done with fairly standard paint, but sometimes it is done with cyanoacrylate (super glue).
Size comparison between the Piston Cup model and the Rook
The rooks have been popular items with the other instructors at the college.
I decided to further stress test the printer by building more "inventory" to replace those that I had created before (and subsequently given away).
Through all of this, the print head performed perfectly.
There was, however, one failure.
Here is how a rook turns out when there was not enough glue on the build platform!
So I have ordered three more spools of PLA filament (in black, brown, and teal blue),
I have ordered another print head, just to have on hand as a backup,
and I have also orderer a bunch more of the special build platform glue!
I will be taking a deep breath and trying the neon green filament again soon.
Then hopefully it will be on to objects of my own design.
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