I'd note that *typically* the curtain only extends part way up the face of the fort, typically there is a small platform (kept as narrow as possible to prevent rallying an escalade out of the line of sight/fire), then the parapet is formed from a 45 degree slope, followed by a broad crest angled at 1/8, into which are cut the embrasures, which are arranged to sweep the glacis with grazing fire (and the musketry from the peak of the parapet to cover the "covered way" from around 2-3 ft above the surface as well as the entire face of the glacis, and to 'overlap' with the fire from the return of the pair of bastions at a height of 4ft above the centre of the wall. The entire upper surface of the parapet in earth, rather than masonry, to avoid throwing masonry fragments from grazing hits. The interior of the parapet, embrasures can an in fact need to be revetted, using fascines gabions or lumber in field fortifications, and strong masonry of the highest quality, often 'stepped' to prevent ricochets and fragments entering, and supported by mantlets and rope screens to provide some cover from observation and fire on the gun crews.

I think the parapet looks too narrow for the style of fortification, but if the measurements are acceptable and/or corrected, paint the interior of the parapet and embrasures in either stone/brick or 'wood', and the exterior wall to the height of the terreplain in the stone/brick colour, then paint the upper section of the exterior wall (which should lie back at ~45 degrees) and the 'top' of the parapet thickness (which should be some 20ft or so) in grass (similar to the modern photo, but with the battery set up in embrasures rather than the later 'en barbette' style.

I'd also reduce the 'platform height' you added inside the ditch ~ the wall is supposed to be largely concealed behind the glacis to help protect it from direct fires from a battery of breach.