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Thread: My Portland 50 Re-envisioned, and others...

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    There's a bit of extra information to process on those sheets, as I tweaked the way fire and flooding were done, and added a sail position option, but they could be used to play with the standard rules, to see what you think. Also, the crew chart is longer to reflect the ship's potential ability to absorb more damage.

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    Admiral of the Fleet.
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    Thanks for that Dobbs.
    I now have several questions about the playing with these charts, which I will hold off on for the present. I do like the way you have laid it all out. It seems to correct a lot of the things I do not like about the current Ship mats.
    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bligh View Post
    Thanks for that Dobbs.
    I now have several questions about the playing with these charts, which I will hold off on for the present. I do like the way you have laid it all out. It seems to correct a lot of the things I do not like about the current Ship mats.
    Rob.
    Ask me your questions, bridge keeper. I am not afraid.

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    Admiral of the Fleet.
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    I can see your marking dots for weakening of guns and masts. How do you decide exactly which part takes the hit, or do you just start at the top and work down the ship?
    What does the box for supplies indicate and how do you decide how much water you have on board etc, or is this just for campaigns? Finally do you plastic wrap the picture and use a dry wipe pen to indicate status?
    If so how easy is it to keep changing the marks as guns change status or sailing speed is altered?
    at what size do you print your mats out?
    Thank you for your patience in my questions, but I have found problems with the markers on my more simple mats.
    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bligh View Post
    I can see your marking dots for weakening of guns and masts. How do you decide exactly which part takes the hit, or do you just start at the top and work down the ship?
    What does the box for supplies indicate and how do you decide how much water you have on board etc, or is this just for campaigns? Finally do you plastic wrap the picture and use a dry wipe pen to indicate status?
    If so how easy is it to keep changing the marks as guns change status or sailing speed is altered?
    at what size do you print your mats out?
    Thank you for your patience in my questions, but I have found problems with the markers on my more simple mats.
    Rob.
    Basic damage is just like the original game, only mark from the top down instead of left to right. When a row has at least 1 point of damage, make a mark next to the broadside strength at that height to indicate that it is not available on that side. If both sides have damage to the same height, just cross out the appropriate broadside strength.

    Supplies, water and all of the information in the lower left are for a campaign game I'm working on, so ignore for now.

    I put the picture (ship chart) in a plastic sleeve and keep track of damage with a grease pencil (red - it's more dramatic). I print them on 8 and 1/2" x 11" sheets, so it takes up the full sheet.

    I do sinking damage and fire differently. Here's an excerpt from the Special Damage section of my "Expanded Rules".

    a) Sailors: A crew hit eliminates the leftmost intact column of crew/musketry.
    b) Broken masts: Each time a broken mast chit is drawn, the player is required to change his following two maneuvers for single broken mast movement cards. If a player takes two mast hits in a single turn, he must still only play two broken mast movement cards before the crew clears the wreckage. After playing the second card, the player can proceed with playing normal maneuvers. Loss of the first row does not result in a potential speed reduction as the ship is jury-rigged. The loss of subsequent mast rows cannot be repaired, but the wreckage may be cleared and the ship’s maximum speed reduced by one for each mast row lost for the remainder of the game. A ship that has lost three rows must use the double mast lost cards to maneuver until the wreckage is cleared. A ship with no mast boxes left must strike its colors if the opponent positions his vessel outside the dismasted ship’s arc of fire and is still able to fire.
    If a ship must use a red card while it is using the damaged mast cards for movement, the player draws a red card randomly.
    c) Fire Damage: A fire damage hit is taken as the loss of hull hits equal to the ship’s Burden. The fire is extinguished next turn, but the damage cannot be repaired. The owning player may choose to distribute the individual points of damage on either side of the target ship. Each time a ship receives fire damage, a Fire special damage box is marked off. Any time a ship takes a fire damage hit after the last box has been marked off, it takes damage as usual, but the player must roll 1d6. On a roll of 5-6, the ship explodes and is destroyed.
    d) Leak: A ship may take as many “Base” leak damage hits as half its Burden (round up). Subsequent leak hits are taken as Hull Damage equal to the ship’s Burden. The owning player may choose to distribute the individual points of damage on either side of the target ship.
    e) Rudder Damage: When the first row of rudder damage is crossed off it decreases the ship’s veer value by one. When the second row of rudder hits is lost, the ship’s veer value is reduced by two and for two turns the ship must use the single broken mast cards to maneuver while the damage is jury rigged. Once repaired, the ship still has a -2 to its Veer rating. If a ship loses its third row of rudder hits, the ship must use the double broken mast cards to maneuver for the remainder of the game. A ship’s Veer Value cannot drop below 1.
    f) Sail Damage: The first sail damage hit has no effect and is merely marked on the ship mat. On the second hit, the hit is indicated as a mast hit and the first sail damage mark is removed. In effect, a sail damage hit is half a mast hit, but without the use of broken mast cards. Further sail damage hits, after the first two, are treated the same way.

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    For sail changes, reloading, and general damage tweaking, every player is issued a half a paper towel for erasing.

    Question for you, Rob. Does the rest of the world have metric paper sizes?

  7. #7
    Admiral of the Fleet.
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    We are metric Dobbs but my printer gives me the option of old Imperial sizes as well. However, it is in fractions and inches just as you wrote it down. Gone are the iconic days of Quarto, Half Elephant, Double Elephant etc, which I was brought up on as a young draughtsman pre 1971.
    The system you outline for damaged masts and sails almost mirrors the system that Capt Kiwi and i use for our friendly games. You have,however, gone a bit further with your ideas for leaks and explosions, and it goes without saying your superb work on gunnery.
    I will put this appraisal before the Admiralty board, ie myself and Andy, for approval.
    We are working on a system of firing by sections at present, so that using your fore or aft section of guns does not debar the firing of the remainder of the guns in the next move. I feel that this may well lead onto fore and aft guns being able to target separately at the same time, but this is something for the future.
    Rob.
    The Business of the commander-in-chief is first to bring an enemy fleet to battle on the most advantageous terms to himself, (I mean that of laying his ships close on board the enemy, as expeditiously as possible); and secondly to continue them there until the business is decided.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bligh View Post
    We are metric Dobbs but my printer gives me the option of old Imperial sizes as well. However, it is in fractions and inches just as you wrote it down. Gone are the iconic days of Quarto, Half Elephant, Double Elephant etc, which I was brought up on as a young draughtsman pre 1971.
    The system you outline for damaged masts and sails almost mirrors the system that Capt Kiwi and i use for our friendly games. You have,however, gone a bit further with your ideas for leaks and explosions, and it goes without saying your superb work on gunnery.
    I will put this appraisal before the Admiralty board, ie myself and Andy, for approval.
    We are working on a system of firing by sections at present, so that using your fore or aft section of guns does not debar the firing of the remainder of the guns in the next move. I feel that this may well lead onto fore and aft guns being able to target separately at the same time, but this is something for the future.
    Rob.
    It is something my fellow players have asked about, but I have not gone there. It is interesting to read about the Shannon vs. Chesapeake engagement, because the Shannon's captain had devised something like modern fire control, led from the quarterdeck. The gunners did not have to see their target to aim at all! But that was the exception.

    I look forward to following your developments.

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