Rorys step by step guild to painting and rigging

[QfunK!]

Wow! And to think that this miniature is about 2.5-3" long.

[Cpt Kangaroo]

Rory, I think that NASA would have been proud for this level of intricacy.

You know, there is one word that is forbidden in that organization.....

OOPS!

[Devsdoc]

Good evening Shipmates,
So we go on with the rigging. Now for the main mast. Knot, pull and glue thin thread at the top of the main mast.



Go into the hole behind the main mast channel starboard side from the out-side.



Lay the thread across the top middle rigging from the mizzen mast (2nd one down). From the in-side of the port side go thou the hole on the main channel.



Pull up to the top, top lay the thread across the top and pull and glue.



Go down to the starboard side the back from the out-side thou the hole again.



Up we go again to the top middle rigging again and again lay it over again.



Down the port side and (sorry) from the in-side back thou the hole.



Back up to the top of the mast. Knot around the mast and thread, pull and glue.



go to the fore mast above the topgallant yard. Knot, pull and glue.



Knot, pull and glue the thread on the jibboom/flying jibboom joint.



After cutting off the thread ends should look like this.



Be safe and good night
Rory

[Devsdoc]

Wow! And to think that this miniature is about 2.5-3" long.

Don't think of the size, just the rigging. Bit by bit.

Rory, I think that NASA would have been proud for this level of intricacy.

You know, there is one word that is forbidden in that organization.....

OOPS!

Lots of oops's! Like some of the photo's, look at some of the painting too!
Be safe
Rory

[Nightmoss]

Hey Rory.

I have a question, which you'll probably be getting to shortly, but do you ever wait to put the ratlines on until after the running rigging is done? I'm beginning to think that even with the extra lines it might be easier to put ratlines on last?

[Devsdoc]

Hey Rory.

I have a question, which you'll probably be getting to shortly, but do you ever wait to put the ratlines on until after the running rigging is done? I'm beginning to think that even with the extra lines it might be easier to put ratlines on last?

Hi Jim,
I would say No. The rat-lines are apart of the standing rigging. It can be hard getting the running rigging around the rat-lines sometimes. I feel it would be harder still to work the hard and unbendable rat-lines into place. I work from the in-side out. I know you have done it last from your postings. I think you where lucky that you where working on big model's. I am not God so I maybe wrong.
Be safe
Rory

[7eat51]

Rory, this is great stuff. I must admit, I am looking forward to trying my hand at painting. Rigging is another thing entirely. I look at the size of my hands and the size of the ship and think, "No way." I appreciate your comment, "Don't think of the size, just the rigging. Bit by bit."

[Nightmoss]

Hi Jim,
I would say No. The rat-lines are apart of the standing rigging. It can be hard getting the running rigging around the rat-lines sometimes. I feel it would be harder still to work the hard and unbendable rat-lines into place. I work from the in-side out. I know you have done it last from your postings. I think you where lucky that you where working on big model's. I am not God so I maybe wrong.
Be safe
Rory

Thanks for the reply, Rory. I may give it a go sometime, but for now I'll continue putting the ratlines on between placement of the standing rigging and running rigging.

I just finished another 64 gun ship and I'm almost at the point where I may pass on future running rigging altogether and go with just the standing rigging. I've noticed that running rigging has a tendency to loosen the standing rigging lines and it certainly increases the amount of time it takes to wrap up the ship construction.

[Gaz67]

Are you sure.....

I am not God so

I know this may be seen as a cheap shot and please take it in good humour, but it made me laugh

[Gunner]

Makes me wonder how many SOG ships I'll butcher before I get it right. Or if I have the patience (ha, ha), just wait and watch others customize their ships first.

[Devsdoc]

Rory, this is great stuff. I must admit, I am looking forward to trying my hand at painting. Rigging is another thing entirely. I look at the size of my hands and the size of the ship and think, "No way." I appreciate your comment, "Don't think of the size, just the rigging. Bit by bit."

Hi Eric,
I find doing the rigging more fun and relaxing than painting. As long as the holes are drilled and clear, think of just one part or mast at a time. I to have large hands. Do the standing rigging only at first on one of your 74,s. As they are big enough and are the biggest number in a fleet, so you can hide the first one. like sheep in a flock.
Be safe
Rory

Thanks for the reply, Rory. I may give it a go sometime, but for now I'll continue putting the ratlines on between placement of the standing rigging and running rigging.

I just finished another 64 gun ship and I'm almost at the point where I may pass on future running rigging altogether and go with just the standing rigging. I've noticed that running rigging has a tendency to loosen the standing rigging lines and it certainly increases the amount of time it takes to wrap up the ship construction.

Jim,
I just love your models. Yes! that can happen! Your ships are your ships, you do what you wish with your ships. I would be very happy to play with your ships any time, any place.
Be safe
Rory

Are you sure.....



I know this may be seen as a cheap shot and please take it in good humour, but it made me laugh

Gaz,
Jane, my better half, laughs. Spend 10 minutes with her and you will know "I'm no God"
Be safe
Rory

Makes me wonder how many SOG ships I'll butcher before I get it right. Or if I have the patience (ha, ha), just wait and watch others customize their ships first.

Hi Ed,
I have seen your album!
Be safe
Rory

Hi Shipmates,
Before I go on. If you have more than one jib sail, you may have to drop this part of the rigging from the main mast to the fore mast to match the 2nd jib sail.



I will post more on rigging tonight.
Be safe
Rory

[Devsdoc]

Its me again,
So the last or fore mast. This mast is just the same as the main mast. The only thing different from both is this is the last bit and you have more room to work in.









Add glue to the end of the flying jibboom, and loop thread around it and pull side wards (port).



Add glue to the end of the port side spritsail yard. Loop thread around it and pull towards the ship. From the in-side go thou the hole by the port cathead.



Go over the middle port side of the spritsail yard, under the bowsprit. Go over the starboard middle spritsail yard and back to the ship.



Go thou the hole by the starboard cathead, from the out-side.



Add glue to the end of the starboard spritsail yard. Loop thread around end.



Again add glue to the end of the flying jibboom. Loop thread around this, pull down and back.



Put glue on the end of the dolphin striker. loop thread around it and pull



After you have cut off the lose ends. your ship should look like this.



So the next bit will be the rat-lines
Be safe
Rory

[Nightmoss]

Very interested to see the ratlines work, Rory. I think I hate putting those on more than anything in the total assembly. Cheers!

[Devsdoc]

Hi All,
See oops! I did not add this photo to the last post. I had to edit the last post for around 10 minutes before I saw what I had done.



Be safe
Rory

[Devsdoc]

Sorry Jim,
I have not done the rat-lines yet, Just the shrouds.
Be safe
Rory

[Gunner]

Rory, is your base the same size as SOG, 50x75mm?

[Devsdoc]

Rory, is your base the same size as SOG, 25x50mm?

Hi Ed.
No! I use Langton bases. This ship is a small 48 gun 2 deck SOL. So I use his 3rd rate base 40mm x 75mm. It maybe a little to big for the size of the ship, but she is a SOL and not a frigate (one deck). For them I use 40mm x 65mm. For unrated ships I use 20mm x 50mm and 1st rate's 40mm x 85mm. It seems he keeps them all the same (rated ships) across, but adds length to each size. 4th rated ships fall between base size's. So I could have used the smaller base for her. But as she is not as fast as a frigate I thought the bigger base best, and more in line with her job. For this one there is no right answer!
If SOG bases are 25mm x 50mm, it's funny that they use smaller bases for a larger scale model ship?
Be safe
Rory

[Devsdoc]

Very interested to see the ratlines work, Rory. I think I hate putting those on more than anything in the total assembly. Cheers!

Sorry Jim,
I have not done the rat-lines yet, Just the shrouds.
Be safe
Rory

Jim,
Sorry! I may have misread your post.
Be safe
Rory

[Gunner]

Rory,

Sorry for the confusion. My post should read 50x75mm.

[Devsdoc]

Hi All,
Now for the rat-lines. I start from the middle of the spur. Working outwards I use them so. Lower main, fore, mizzen, upper main, fore and mizzen. On some spurs the upper mizzen is across the top of the spur.



Look for the name tag in the bottom left side. This is the right side to be on the out-side, pointing out from the ship. Look for the straight edge on the main mast rat-line, this goes to towards the bow. As do all the rat-lines on that side of the spur.



Cut free the first rat-line. I do it in the order as said above. (main)



Put the rest to one side. I only do one at a time.



Using the bent tweezers and hold the R/L next to the mast.



If too long, cut away from the top. The blocks should rest on the channel and the top under the fighting top.



Turn the R/L over and add a spot of glue to the top and bottom. As I have only 2 hands, I use the glue straight from the bottle.



Lay R/L from the top to bottom, holding the R/L with the tweezers. I also use the closed tweezers to push the R/L to the channel. If you push at the top it can move the R/L around the mast.(bad times) So push the bottom haft of the R/L only.



I then move to the fore mast, doing as above again. I find the main mast the hardest to do, as you have less space to work in. So it gets easier as you go.



I then do the mizzen R/L.



Wait for a minute or two, and do it all over again on the other side.



I now do the upper R/L'S. I again start with the main mast. I hate having to cut them to size as I feel they should be made to fit. Fit to the mast under the top, and go to the outer edge of the fighting top. Glue, move around as above.



I wait again, turn the ship over and do the other side.



I seem to be missing the last photo Back soon.
Rory
5 minutes later, No! Just bad editing on my part. This is the finished ship.

[Devsdoc]

Shipmates,
I must now do the standing on the "Selafail 74" before I can start the running rigging. Why! the "Selafail" has more sails set than the "Venera", so will be more helpful. Bad planning on my part. I will do this as fast as I can. I will be back with, as Jane call's it "stringing". I know for some of you this is as far you will wish to go. There is more. But post if you wish and I will answer you. Thanks so far for liking this thread.
Be safe
Rory

[Nightmoss]

You make the ratlines look so easy!!!?? Maybe the more I do them the easier it will get, but I can tell you from my experience that they are incredibly fiddly and love to pop off even if you just touch the bottom. Thanks for the tips and photos.

[Volunteer]

Wow Rory, you have been busy! I love this thread. And I have learned a few things I am going to try. Sorry for not commenting for the last week. There was absolutely no data or wyfi where we were.

Regards,
Vol

[Gunner]

Jane call's it "stringing".

Don't forget to have Jane help. You know what they say, "The family that plays together, stays together".
At least that's what my second X told me.

[Devsdoc]

You make the ratlines look so easy!!!?? Maybe the more I do them the easier it will get, but I can tell you from my experience that they are incredibly fiddly and love to pop off even if you just touch the bottom. Thanks for the tips and photos.

Jim,
I cannot paint like you. I try, but no. But I do try. Don't let a piece brass get into your head my friend. I know you will win in the end. Try working up-side down on one side!
Be safe
Rory

Wow Rory, you have been busy! I love this thread. And I have learned a few things I am going to try. Sorry for not commenting for the last week. There was absolutely no data or wyfi where we were .
Regards,
Vol

Good Vol,
Time for you and your family. I'm so glad you are home, my friend.
Be safe
Rory

Don't forget to have Jane help. You know what they say, "The family that plays together, stays together".
At least that's what my second X told me.

Ed,
We play a lot together. We also play apart. Sometimes we need to do our own thing. "Stringing" is one thing Jane thinks is best I do alone.
Be safe
Rory

P.S. I'm one of the luckiest men in the world.

[Devsdoc]

Not long my Shipmates,
I have just finished the standing rigging . Will do the rat-lines tomorrow . So hope to start running rigging at the latest next week . If life does not get in the way.
Be safe
Rory

[Devsdoc]

Hi All,
Done the rat-lines. Will start running rigging soon



Be safe
Rory

[7eat51]

Rory, this has been incredibly helpful thus far. I especially like your comments such as "If you push at the top it can move the R/L around the mast.(bad times) So push the bottom haft of the R/L only." This is the type of advice that will save newbies like me a lot of angst.

[Devsdoc]

The running rigging. I use Rod Langton's book on painting and rigging as a guild. I have made a number of changes which I think help me. I do longer runs with one thread. I use less knots. This in my eyes would help Jims tension problem. I start on the yardarm ends and go around the mast on the opposite side. If I can I always go between the mast and rat-lines. I go over or under the tops as I think is best for the angle of the line I'm working on. As I'm only going for the look of running rigging, I think its O.K. I must say Rods book is my bible and the best £10 I have spent.
I use a lighter colour thread for the running rigging. Add a spot of glue to the bottom front side of the jib. Lay the end of the thread on the glue and press.

Sorry Guys,
NO PHOTOS came up????????? Just lost at hours work. NOT HAPPY :angry:

[Devsdoc]

So! I try Again. I'm doing it in smaller blocks. I'm still :angry: but life goes on. So as I was saying. 1st photo.



Pull thou the fore main channel. Pull, knot and glue.



Knot, pull and glue thread to the end of the spritsail yardarm.



Pull thread under the fore mast topsail and around the opposite side of the fore mast. Between the mast and the rat-lines.



Go back to the opposite side spritsail yardarm. Add glue to yardarm pull and loop around arm.



O.K. I'm still :angry: Sorry! I will post more later.
Be safe
Rory

[Devsdoc]

Hi All,
I'm now loading the photo's first and adding text last.
Cut the ends off.
Knot, pull and glue thread to fore topsail yardarm.



Go back under the main topsail and around the main under the fighting top.



Go back under the main topsail. Go up to the opposite foresail yardarm. The one below the one I started with. Add glue to the yardarm pull and loop around the arm.



Going up behind the fore topsail to the fore mast. Go over and around the front of the yardarm and down to the opposite side. Add glue to the yardarm. Pull and loop around.



Go back under the main topsail again and back to the opposite fore topsail yardarm. Add Glue to the yardarm Pull and loop around.



Go behind the fore topgallant sail and around to mast. Coming down the opposite side behind the sail (Note I missed, and went in front of the sail on the photo and had it re-do). You should be back where you started this run. Add glue to the yardarm pull and loop around.



It should look like this. when dry cut ends.
I will ad to this post soon
Be safe
Rory

[Devsdoc]

Knot, pull and glue thread to the fore topgallant yard arm.



Go back to the main mast at to top of the topsail yardarm. go around the main mast and back to the opposite fore topgallant yardarm. Add glue to the arm, pull and loop around.



At the top of the fore mast add glue. Pull and loop around mast



Go back to the start of the this run. Add glue pull and loop around arm.



This is the bowsprit and for mast done. only 2 small bits too do. then we move to the main



I'm not a happy bunny about the lost of my post. But I'm better now
Be safe
Rory

[Devsdoc]

Hi All
Some things I missed in the 2nd time of writing. The jib. If you have 2 or more jibs. Start with the first one and do not glue and knot at the channel, just go back to the 2nd one lay a dot of glue on the bottom of it pull and hold the thread for a minute on the glue. Do the 3rd one as a single jib. At the end of the rigging I will paint over all the thread on the sails and yardarm ends.
This is all for a day or two. Sorry! but life.
Be safe
Rory

[Devsdoc]

Hi!, A short one tonight.
Put a spot of glue on the bottom corner of the fore sail. press the thread onto the glue.



Run the thread back to the hole behind the main mast channel.



Go thou the hole, pull, knot, pull again and glue. After a minute or two cut off thread end.



Repeat all of the above on the opposite side. If the courses are not set you can miss this bit out.
Be safe
Rory

[Rabbit]

Hi, thank you for the inspiration.

Could you tell me how many holes you drill in the hull for the rigging?
And where the holes in the masts are cut

Vol helps out in his post 07-17-2013, 05:43, but I am afraid I am new to this lark and would prefer to reduce the risk of a NASA moment.

You say "I drilled holes in the main mast fighting top."
I assume this is above the platform where the crew would stand but below the next joint up, so the hole is where the two sections of mast are lashed together and the hole will be at the TOP of this double section? (Photo Please?).

Your close-ups (post 08-06-2013, 23:17) appear to show rigging at the BOTTOM of this section, so I may be and probably am wrong in my assumption?
Do you cut holes in only this mast or in all three? If only the main mast, why? Are the others too weak?

Also in the bow and behind the Catheads and Channels (both sides)
Catheads I understand.

"In the channels" I assume these holes are cut in the sides of the ship, where it protrudes above the deck? (In the region where the scuppers would be?)
Where your photos (post 08-06-2013, 01:56) show holes, they appear to be through the top of the stern attachment, Am I correct in this?
I believe therefore there are eight holes along the sides of the ship, four down each side, the foremost of which will be behind the cathead, the others will be (paired) somewhere behind each of the masts?

Where do you drill the hole(s) in the bow?

I assume there are two holes, either side of the bowsprit, I now have a model in front of me and can see an area where two holes could be cut, through what is the area of curving timber. (I don’t know what the nautical term would be).

I have logged on, on a different PC with a newer brighter screen, and I believe that the bow holes (2) are as close to the centre line of the ship…(post 07-17-2013, 00:30) correct?
In that same post, it appears that these holes (for the standing rigging) are behind the ledges (terminology?) on the outside of the hull, thus the standing rigging is secured aft of the rat-lines?

Finally, both you and I think James (White) use black (tarred?) thread for the standing rigging and brown (natural) coloured thread for the running rigging?
Was this common practice for all navies?

I intend to try Horse (tail) Hair for the rigging, I have both black and brown (dirty grey anyway), has anyone tried this. I have a vague recollection that this was “someone’s” recommendation?

I note, now I can actually see your photos, that you have a whitish grey bloom on the masts in many of your photos. I assume this is a bloom caused by the varnish, this seems to be a very common fault in the 28mm Napoleonic figure modelling scene, I have encountered it only with GW Purity Seal. I have never heard of it happening with the Army Painter series of sprays.

The cause appears to be moisture, either condensation or excess humidity. The TMP (The Miniatures Page) site for more information. It seems it is better to spray in a warm dry atmosphere, should any cloudiness appear, you can do a number of things. re-spray, re-paint or try passing warm air (hair dryer) over the model(s).

Lovely work, I hope I can come somewhere close.

Rabbit.

[Volunteer]

Hi, thank you for the inspiration.

In that same post, it appears that these holes (for the standing rigging) are behind the ledges (terminology?) on the outside of the hull, thus the standing rigging is secured aft of the rat-lines?

Finally, both you and I think James (White) use black (tarred?) thread for the standing rigging and brown (natural) coloured thread for the running rigging?
Was this common practice for all navies?

I intend to try Horse (tail) Hair for the rigging, I have both black and brown (dirty grey anyway), has anyone tried this. I have a vague recollection that this was “someone’s” recommendation?

I note, now I can actually see your photos, that you have a whitish grey bloom on the masts in many of your photos. I assume this is a bloom caused by the varnish, this seems to be a very common fault in the 28mm Napoleonic figure modelling scene, I have encountered it only with GW Purity Seal. I have never heard of it happening with the Army Painter series of sprays.

The cause appears to be moisture, either condensation or excess humidity. The TMP (The Miniatures Page) site for more information. It seems it is better to spray in a warm dry atmosphere, should any cloudiness appear, you can do a number of things. re-spray, re-paint or try passing warm air (hair dryer) over the model(s).

Lovely work, I hope I can come somewhere close.

Rabbit.

Rabbit,
-The "Ledges" are the channels the shrouds attach to. on either side of a ship.
-The standing rigging was always tarred to prevent moisture from affecting the tension of the lines. Wet lines stretch. Thus the black colour. Plus these lines were "fixed" in place, unlike running rig lines that were constantly changed and handled so they were not tarred.
-For a time I was using horse hair to rig my ships (see my web site). It is the right thickness for the scale and doesn't stretch. The trouble was that super glue didn't work very well on it. Shampooing the hair to remove the oils helped a bit. It was also very brrittle and had a tendency to break when knotting. I have sense gone back to waxed thread. I recently bought several spools of fine fly tying thread, but have yet to rig a ship with it. Perhaps after I finish my Dutch fleet I will try it on my next fleet, as I don't want ships in one fleet to look different from the others. British ships I don't care about since they obtained their ships from all nations.
-The "whitish grey bloom " is most likely glare from the matt sealer Rory uses to coat his ships before rigging. I have this same effect in my photos.

The rest of your questions Rory can answer. I work with Navwar, Davco, GHQ as well as Langton ships and they are very different as to where you can drill holes for rigging. I am not as familiar with Langton's rigging guide's drilling directions yet as I haven't built a Langton ship since my generous shipmate Rory gifted me with the guide (thank you again Rory!) The Navwar ships require building up bulwarks and channels in order to make room for holes and many have no catheads at all, so they have to be added.

Regards,
Vol

PS: Rory, I can finally see all of your magnificent photos.

[Devsdoc]

Hi Rab,
Here go's!
I drill only the main mast. Why? this is the place the thin and thick threads meet. Drill at the fighting top (post 1, 4th photo the top mast the one on it's side.)
The long ledges = channels. Drill aft of the channels (ledges). Thou the bulwarks (rail that runs around the ship) for each mast. The channels hold the rat-lines.
Yes, that is why I glue the stern on first.
If the cat head is big enough Drill thou it itself. Or you can drill in front of the cathead e.g. going forward. Its up to you and the space on the model.
No, one hole only thou the bow itself. below the headrails (Curving timber) The thread goes over the bowsprit and around and thou this hole a number of times.
Yes, Standing rigging holds the mast in place. So is tarred. The running rigging moves the sails. It goes thou blocks, tar would foul the blocks and stop the running of the ship.
That is up to you, your ships! I would not use horse hair.
Yes, it was a cold night and a new can. not the best time or way to spray. thanks for your tips.
Hope this helps you Rab. If not re-post.
Be safe
Rory

P.S. As I had your post open I did not see Vols post (thanks Vol)

[Devsdoc]

Hi Shipmates,
I had a problem with my last long post. So I'm going to brake this one down. I sat here for over an hour only to lose all photos and had to redo the lot (NOT AGAIN my friends).
So! this is a long run, have a long thread ready. I have only gone so far, but stopped at a good place. Add a spot of glue to the front of the mainsail (course). Press thread to the sail. If the course is not set, start at the mainsail yardarm. By knot, pull and gluing.



Go to the rear hole at the stern and go thou from the out-side.



Go to the lower arm of the spanker. Add glue to the arm. Pull and loop thread around the lower arm.



Have a walk around as the next bit is hard. On the same side go between the spanker the standing rigging. Then go between the mizzen mast and the rat-line (Above the fighting top).



Go over the cross jack and under the mizzen topsail, then go around the front of the mizzen mast. And back thou the opposite side again between the mast and the rat-line. Just do it slowly and one step at a time.



Have a cup of tea/coffee. work the thread thou the standing rigging so it again between the spanker and the standing rigging Go back down to the lower arm. Add glue to the arm pull and loop thread around the arm. You will feel good with yourself at this point.



From here go to the opposite stern hole and go thou from the in-side out.



Go to the upper spanker arm. Add glue to the arm. Pull and loop thread around arm.



:g&t: Its all down hill from here.
Be safe my ex-shipmates
Rory

[Devsdoc]

I work with Navwar, Davco, GHQ as well as Langton ships and they are very different as to where you can drill holes for rigging. I am not as familiar with Langton's rigging guide's drilling directions yet as I haven't built a Langton ship since my generous shipmate Rory gifted me with the guide (thank you again Rory!) The Navwar ships require building up bulwarks and channels in order to make room for holes and many have no catheads at all, so they have to be added.

Regards,
Vol

PS: Rory, I can finally see all of your magnificent photos.

Hi Vol,
Some of Langton's ships have no bulwarks Or room to drill. So I got a fine chain from a dolls house shop. By cutting the 2nd link, the 1st link gives you a small ring. This I glue to the side of the ship (Half above the deck and use this hole to hold the rigging. Gave me time and I will fish out a ship I have done this too and photo it and post. This would save you building up a whole bulwark on a ship that does not have one. Thanks for helping me, help Rab.
Be safe my friend
Rory

[Volunteer]

Rory,

"Be safe my ex-shipmates"??? Are you going somwhere? Are we exes?

I tried using small chain for the ensign lanyard on the spanker of one of my ships, but never thought about using like you suggest. I have a lot more Navwar ships so I'll have to try it. Thanks.

Regards,
Vol

[Devsdoc]

Rory,

"Be safe my ex-shipmates"??? Are you going somwhere? Are we exes?

I tried using small chain for the ensign lanyard on the spanker of one of my ships, but never thought about using like you suggest. I have a lot more Navwar ships so I'll have to try it. Thanks.

Regards,
Vol

I'm thinking after this last run of rigging, some of our shipmates will hate me. this part is the hardest to do. I may be crossed off a lot of Christmas card list after today
Be safe
Rory

[7eat51]

I'm thinking after this last run of rigging, some of our shipmates will hate me. this part is the hardest to do. I may be crossed off a lot of Christmas card list after today
Be safe
Rory

Actually, I am adding you to mine.

This has been an incredibly informative and helpful thread, and the interaction between members in terms of Q&A has been wonderful.

[Rabbit]

Wow, Again!

Thank you both, Rory and Vol.

Ok Christmas card list or not, I for one am not worthy.

Nice clear explanations that even a newbie like me can follow, even if I cannot hope to replicate.
Horse Hair is out then, the Memsaab will be pleased.

I was cleaning the flash off a Langton NB/10, Ex French 80 gun at quarters, last night, I noted that the hull side actually have dimples in the “bulwarks”, which seem to be in the correct places for the rigging holes Rory has explained. Is this a coincidence or Mr Langton being kind?

I found a similar dimple in the fighting top of the mainmast, on the bit that the crew would stand upon, this was a bit rougher than the others, and may have been a casting flaw, rather than an indication of where to drill. This would indicate a vertical hole but from your earlier posts, the hole may be horizontal?

Does anyone know if the Langton’s make such indications in the masts?

No such dimples found in the DAVCO hulls I aquired at the same time...

For those of us in the UK after fine chain, try Squires Model and Craft Tools of Bognor Regis, West Sussex, I do not know if they will supply abroad.

Rabbit

[Devsdoc]

Good evening Shipmates,
O.K. I lied, This is the hardest bit.
If you look from behind the ship, on the mizzen mast you will see the first piece of the standing rigging you did in the middle of all the rigging (the one the shrouds passed thou, over). Your thread must go around this one thread only (use tweezers). Lay it on the fighting top. pull about 90% of the thread thou. Then work the thread under the fighting top and pull the rest thou.



Go back to the upper arm of the spanker again. Add a spot of glue to the arm. Pull and loop around the arm. No Joke this time, the bad bits are behind us.



Into that hole again at the back end of the hull, from the out-side. And back up to the top arm of the spanker again. Add glue to the arm again. Pull and Loop around the arm



Go to the opposite side of the hull and from the in-side go thou the hole.



Go up to mainsail yardarm. Add glue to the arm. Pull and loop around the arm.



Go up behind the mainsail to the main mast. Go around the front of the mast and back down the opposite side behind the mainsail again to the mainsail yardarm. Add glue to the arm. Pull and loop around arm.



Go back to that hole again. Go thou again, If it is full just go around the rigging instead of the hole. Pull, knot, pull tight and glue.



After it has dried, cut of the end. Put a spot of glue on the front of the mainsail (opposite side to which you started). If the mainsail is not set miss this bit out.



As above go to the last hole again. Pull, knot, pull tight and glue.



So if you still have a ship and not a ball of metal and thread. You can rest a bit as I do and photo the next bit
Be safe
Rory

[csadn]

"Thou"?

[Devsdoc]

Wow, Again!

Thank you both, Rory and Vol.

Ok Christmas card list or not, I for one am not worthy.

Nice clear explanations that even a newbie like me can follow, even if I cannot hope to replicate.
Horse Hair is out then, the Memsaab will be pleased.

I was cleaning the flash off a Langton NB/10, Ex French 80 gun at quarters, last night, I noted that the hull side actually have dimples in the “bulwarks”, which seem to be in the correct places for the rigging holes Rory has explained. Is this a coincidence or Mr Langton being kind?

I found a similar dimple in the fighting top of the mainmast, on the bit that the crew would stand upon, this was a bit rougher than the others, and may have been a casting flaw, rather than an indication of where to drill. This would indicate a vertical hole but from your earlier posts, the hole may be horizontal?

Does anyone know if the Langton’s make such indications in the masts?

No such dimples found in the DAVCO hulls I aquired at the same time...

For those of us in the UK after fine chain, try Squires Model and Craft Tools of Bognor Regis, West Sussex, I do not know if they will supply abroad.

Rabbit

Hi Rab,
I do not know? It maybe so. I think not. Or maybe the newer models (higher make numbers) do? I would not plan to think that it is so, as it may not be so. This is a mad answer! Don't rely on it.
Be safe
Rory

[Devsdoc]

"Thou"?

Sorry Chris,
It should read "through" My spelling is bad. It has taken me years to get it to what it is now. The biggest help for me was to write a small book by hand and some good friends who helped me loads. I now write more because of spell-check. If this was not around, I would not be here now.
Be safe
Rory

Hi Vol,
This is from one of my first ships. Painting is not so hot. But it shows the rings being used at the base of the fore mast. Hope this helps you my friend. I think rigging has always been my thing. I now paint better and one day it will match the rigging. I have one ship I c##ked-up the drilling and used a ring to repair the great big hole I made.
Be safe
Rory





.

[Volunteer]

Interesting Rory. Thanks for the illustration.

[Devsdoc]

Now for the top bit of the main mast. This is not so hard as what has been done before.
Add glue to the end of the main topsail yardarm. Knot and pull.



Cross over and go around the mizzen mast. At the top of the top rat-lines. Do not go through the rat line like I did.

The wrong way



The right way



Go to the opposite side main topgallant yardarm. The next one up from the one you started with. Add glue to the arm, pull and loop around the arm.



Go to the top of the mast. Add glue to the mast, pull and loop around the mast.



Go to the opposite side of the topgallant yardarm. Add glue to the arm, pull and loop around the arm.



Go back to the mizzen mast. At the same place as before. Go round the mizzen mast on the opposite side you have just done.



Go to the opposite main topsail yardarm. Add glue to the end of the arm, pull and loop around the arm. NOTE you must pass through the best way you can round the standing and running rigging you have done before.



Go up behind the topgallant sail and around the front of the mast.



Go down behind the opposite side of the topgallant sail



You should be back at the point you started this from. Add glue to the arm, pull and loop around the arm. That is the main mast done.



So one more mast to do. The space to work in is the smallest, but you know now what's what.
Be safe
Rory

[csadn]

Sorry Chris,
It should read "through" My spelling is bad.

For a moment I was thinking "Man, he's really gone Hardcore with this -- talking like someone from the period...." ;)