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Thread: Rorys step by step guild to painting and rigging

  1. #1
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    Default Rorys step by step guild to painting and rigging

    Hi Guy's
    I'm not Vol, Jim or James. This is how I do it. It is not the best or only way it's just my way. This is going to be done in real time, so there maybe long bouts of nothing sorry. I will use lots of photos. I will try and answer question's as we go. If you do not like what I'm doing that is O.K. You can take it all or in part as you wish. I base the work from Langton's Paint and rigging guild with Rory add on's and misses. I hope this helps my Shipmates in what to, or not to do with model ships. I am making wargaming models not art. So some of you WILL not like what I do.
    So here goes.
    I'm going to use Langton's NR5, M-TJ, MX16 and PE4 for painting

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    And because she is bigger "Selafail" 74 gun Langton's NR2 For the rigging.

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    I glued sails to masts and stern to the hull.

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    I drilled holes in the main mast fighting top. Also in the bow and behind the Catheads and Channels (both sides). I also drilled though the mast holes.

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    I added the Bowsprit to the ship.

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    Sprayed them all white.

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    Sprayed the base blue. then puff sprayed it green.

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    Be safe
    Rory
    Last edited by Devsdoc; 07-16-2013 at 17:42.

  2. #2
    Admiral of the White
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    Anxious to see what's next and thank you for the step by step. Carry on.

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    Rory, this is great. Thanks.

    Not having ever done this before, and not having parts or book yet, I have a couple of questions.

    You wrote, "I drilled holes in the main mast fighting top. Also in the bow and behind the Catheads and Channels (both sides). I also drilled though the mast holes."

    Would you mind explaining a bit more?
    Does Langton's book state drill bit sizes?
    Does it show you how to do these holes you have done?
    Did you drill all the way through on each of these, or are you making holes for other pieces to fit in but not through (I hope my question is clear and apologize if not)?

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    Can't wait to see more Rory!

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    Eric, Rory is probably sleeping now. The holes in the fighting tops, bow, catheads and channels are for rigging later, not parts. That's why his rigging looks so good. He drills out the mast holes for a better fit.

    Rory,
    This is wonderful! I am so glad you are doing this. You have already taught me a great deal over the last several months and I am anticipating learning a great deal more with this guide of yours. We are all anxiously awaiting your next installment.
    Regards,
    Vol

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    Love these types of threads Rory, look forward to reading more, makes me think maybe even I can do this

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    Hi All,
    It's me again! Thank you for the feed back on this thread. Eric, I hope Vol answered you fully (Thanks Vol ). If not repost . I'm finding the photos hard to do, if they are not good Sorry!
    I use Citadel, Army Painter and Formula P3 acrylic paints. Why? I love A,P's spray paints and just buy the colours I like.
    I paint the Stern and the Bows, Head Rails Black.

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    I add blue spots to the windows of the Stern.

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    This one is very hard to show, I added a brown to the Head rails. By dry-brushing it over the black.

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    I will not tell you what colours to use. That is up to you and what fleet you are painting. I dry-brushed Bronze over the whole Stern. Some of you may wish to add more detail at this point on the Stern. I had to use two photo's for this one.

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    I painted the inside top of the Stern Bronze too. That is all from me tonight my shipmate's
    Be safe
    Rory
    Last edited by Devsdoc; 07-17-2013 at 17:09.

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    Rory, my order is going in today. Once I read Langton's book, I am sure I will have plenty of questions. For now, I think I understand, but time will tell. Regardless, it is really good to know I have you folks to lean on for advice and encouragement.

    Please continue to share Rory. This is helpful and inspiring.

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    Great Rory. A question, why bronze instead of gold? It looks great.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Volunteer View Post
    Great Rory. A question, why bronze instead of gold? It looks great.
    Hi Vol,
    I do as little work as possible. So if I painted Gold it would be too bling looking, unless I added more colour. Maybe O.K. for Spanish? The Bronze look, look's more weathered. Or you could use Yellow's for a less "in your face" look.
    Be safe
    Rory
    Last edited by Devsdoc; 07-18-2013 at 07:31.

  11. #11

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    Must look away....must look away...I will not be sucked into another modeling project.

    Excellent work so far.

  12. #12

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    Excellent postings Rory - thanks!



    Eric

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    Hi All,
    The hull. Most of the hulls are Black, but not all. Some had diffident colours or more than one colour. Sorry! but that is a thread in it's self. Not for here. The Russian's had black and white ships. So I have painted mine Black. Also do the Bow post and under the stern. You can also do the Catheads and front Beakhead (The bit behind the Bowsprit with the Knightheads on). I have left mine for now. Do the top of the Bulwarks too. But do not paint the Hammock netting. I have not painted below the lowest Wale.
    I also painted the Gratings Black.

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    I then Dry-brushed over the Black on the Gratings

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    I am waiting for Jane to ring, as I must go and pick her up. So more later
    Be safe
    Rory
    Last edited by Devsdoc; 07-18-2013 at 12:45.

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    The bronze really looks good, and against the black of the hull and the blue of the windows, very sharp.

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    Nice post, I especially like how Blue paint costs more then Green by a whole £1.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaz67 View Post
    Nice post, I especially like how Blue paint costs more then Green by a whole £1.
    Hi Gaz,
    I bet you cannot guess which is the oldest can?

    Back again, Jane home safe.
    Now it's time to clean out the drilled holes with a pin.

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    For the decks pick two colours that match. But one a little darker.

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    Using the darker of the two paint the main gun deck in the waist and the Beakhead.

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    Paint the rest of the decks with the lighter colour. Sorry! not a good photo!

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    Around this time I paint the model number under the new ships base.

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    I now paint the Catheads and the front bulkhead behind the Beakhead, both sides and along the top. This could be done at the hull stage if using the same colour as the hull. As I was using the same colour I also painted around the Gratings.

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    I hope this helps you and is not to long winded. I must go and paint some more
    Be safe
    Rory
    Last edited by Devsdoc; 07-18-2013 at 15:56.

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Devsdoc View Post
    Hi Vol,
    I do as little work as possible. So if I painted Gold it would be too bling looking, unless I added more colour. Maybe O.K. for Spanish? The Bronze look, look's more weathered. Or you could use Yellow's for a less "in your face" look.
    Be safe
    Rory
    Ah! Good point. I'll have to try it. Thanks Rory.


    I hope this helps you and is not to long winded. I must go and paint some more
    Be safe
    Rory[/QUOTE]

    I thoght wind was a requirement in this game? The longer the wind the better!

    Regards,
    Vol

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    Hi All,
    Yes! Vol, I'm Blowing. Thanks for your e-mail. I think you are right!
    The next bit is the start of the Oh! my God. Mistake's can and will be made. It is O.K. as you just paint over your mistake's. It is now hard to take photo's of the work as it is getting smaller for now. It is mostly just dots and short lines.
    I painted the inside of the Bulwarks and Waist.

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    The Gun Carriages and some of the deck furnishings. Again not the best photo.

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    I finished off the deck furnishings and Bitts on the inside of the Bulwarks with a darker colour

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    The last part of the inside of the ship is the black bits. The galley chimney, the Cannon barrel and the door-ways to the inside of ship under the decks.

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    The next bit is back to the hull.
    Be safe
    Rory

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    Looking great Rory. As much as I think the pictures are impressive, when I realize just how small these models really are, it becomes incomprehensible to me. I really admire the skill of the shipmates here.

    Forgive me if you mentioned this before, but what type of magnification device are you using? My eyesight is not what it used to be, so I will need something good. Vol and I discussed some goggles earlier in the spring, and I bought a pair, but I have to bring the item within inches of my face for the goggles to be clear. I cannot imagine such a position when trying to paint.

  20. #20

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    Eric
    There are a couple of optical solutions to the magnification problem depending on what glasses you already wear

    If you just wear readers with similar strength in each eye then these
    http://www.eschenbach.com/1a5c8084-1...ear-detail.htm
    offer a range of high magnification glasses with reasonable working distances (20cm for the link above). The problem with most magnifying systems for this sort of work is that as the magnification increases, the working distance decreases.

    The second alternative is a clip on magnifying system that attaches to your glasses or comes with its' own frame, thus
    http://www.eschenbach.com/products-s...on-systems.htm

    The eschenbach products are top of the line optical items and thus expensive but there are cheaper options you'll find on the web which will certainly do the job. Ideally you should try them out but this could be tricky unless your local eyecare provider stocks them or is willing to get them in for you to try. If you are on good terms with them take a model in and say this is what I want to paint how can I see it comfortably!


    Quote Originally Posted by 7eat51 View Post
    Looking great Rory. As much as I think the pictures are impressive, when I realize just how small these models really are, it becomes incomprehensible to me. I really admire the skill of the shipmates here.

    Forgive me if you mentioned this before, but what type of magnification device are you using? My eyesight is not what it used to be, so I will need something good. Vol and I discussed some goggles earlier in the spring, and I bought a pair, but I have to bring the item within inches of my face for the goggles to be clear. I cannot imagine such a position when trying to paint.

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    Hi Eric,
    I'm 56 and wear glasses. I do not use magnification. If your eyes are O.K. I believe that if you work using magnification it looks all wrong on the table. But for you my friend I do not know what to say? Vol is a good friend and would always try and help. Daniel information sounds good to me and maybe the way to go. I would take a model to your Optical person as you may find they like to help with something diffident. I wish I could be more helpful.
    Be safe
    Rory

  22. #22

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    I like the paint job Rory!

  23. #23

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    Looks good Rory. I'm waiting for you to start on the sails, rigging and netting. Keep up the good work.

  24. #24

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    Awesome thread Rory, we are all working vicariously through you. Looking forward to the next stage.

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    Hi All,
    First I must say I'm unhappy with my work. Seeing my ship as photos is not nice. I see Jims Thread tonight (which is so good) a bit of me thinks, why do I do this? This is the low point of the paint job. Lot of clean up work to do. I will keep going with this thread, I just went you all to know how I feel about it.

    I have done this post photo's last night. But was working at Corfe Castle to day. I have painted the white lines on the ship. The lines are painted on the line of the gun ports.

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    As I was doing the white colour, I dry-brushed the base.

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    I last bit of this run is the rest of the hull under the bottom Wale. This can be white for the lead paint. Before 1779 all ships had lead painted bottoms, after this date more and more ships had copper bottoms. As the Russians sits for a long time in iced up harbour. I have painted my Russian fleet with old copper e.g. dark green.

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    In the next day or two I will be doing the gun ports and try and put the rest of the hull right.
    Be safe
    Rory

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    Hi Rory,

    I am sure I speak for most if not all when I say you are doing us such a service with this thread. We're eagerly looking forward to your finished ship.

    Thank you for sharing.

  27. #27

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    It is coming along nicely Rory.

    "Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish."
    John Quincy Adams

    Regards,
    Vol

  28. #28
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    I've already learned several things from your thread, and I'll be using the two tone brown/tan on my next ship for sure. That is a such a great effect, never would have thought of it. Also, I'm really envious of your dry brushing technique on the base. Mine end up too blotchy and yours looks fantastic and more realistic to the scale.

    Looking forward to the rest of your build.

  29. #29

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    Rory
    Remember, you are always just one touch up away from perfection with painting

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    Quote Originally Posted by Volunteer View Post
    It is coming along nicely Rory.

    "Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish."
    John Quincy Adams

    Regards,
    Vol
    Hi All,
    Oops! I forgot say I done the Hammock Nettings at the same time as the white lines.
    Oh boy, That's heavy Vol, but thanks.
    O.K. back to work! I painted the gun ports black and done a little re-painting.

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    The start of the sails and masts. Colour of sails??? I have tried many colours of sails (see Rory's ships and harbour thread) from dark browns to white. I try to use 2 colours on the sails. You must use what you like the look of yourself. I paint the sails a base colour.

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    Its a short one tonight, but I had a lot of patching in to do.
    Be safe
    Rory

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    Quote Originally Posted by Berthier View Post
    Rory
    Remember, you are always just one touch up away from perfection with painting
    Hi All,
    Or cocking it up! Daniel

    O.K. back to work.
    I dry-brushed the sails with a darker colour at the bottom sides. Large area not just the corner and across the reefs

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    Using the same colour I painted the lines across and down the sails Sorry not a good photo.

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    I then painted the yard arms.

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    As I was painting the arms black, I painted the first side of the rat lines.

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    This is more painting than talking tonight. I am beginning to like the ship again.
    Be safe
    Rory

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    Rory, do you simply like the look of the sail color, or are you painting for a more weathered look? Would you paint the sails differently when building for display verses building for play?

    Looking forward to seeing the rest of your work.

    Vol's quote is pretty profound. I am going to share that one with my students this coming semester.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7eat51 View Post
    Rory, do you simply like the look of the sail color, or are you painting for a more weathered look? Would you paint the sails differently when building for display verses building for play?

    Looking forward to seeing the rest of your work.

    Vol's quote is pretty profound. I am going to share that one with my students this coming semester.
    Eric,
    I have tried many colours for my ships sails (see my thread:- ships and harbour) the only one I did not like was the white and grey, wish now I had re-painted it before I rigged her. The Russians made lots of ships of one class as they had so much timber, but life of each ship was short. Around 10-15 years only. To me that smacks of a Ford car like (not the life) of building ships. So my Russian fleet looks all the same. Like the ford, but Black & White not just Black. That is why I paint all the Russian ships sails the same. This is my 11th ship of this fleet and only have one more to do. I will be glad to do the last one. I would not begin to think I could paint display ships. I'm not that good. I wish only show that with a little time and thought any one can do a model ship for a game table. David saves me with his "looks O.K. at arms length" thing. I hope this answers you my ship mate.
    Be safe
    Rory

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    Been on the road over the last weekend. So no time for painting. Now back to the pot.

    Done the upper masts

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    Afterwards panted the lower masts. I find doing it this way round is better for me, as you are working from the inside of the mast to the out side.

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    I then paint the tops and fighting tops. they are mainly black for all fleets. I paint the under side first.

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    I now paint the 2nd side of the rat lines.

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    The last part I do of the paint job is the iron bands around the lower masts. For this fleet I use black. Nelson liked his fleets to have yellow. before 1800 the bands were made of rope, So would be brown

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    Just have to put it all together and start the rigging. That is the next part.
    Be safe
    Rory

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    How many coats of paint do sails and such usually take? I notice the details are still very sharp, so it seems like the coats must be somewhat thin.

    Good to see you back Rory. I have been missing this thread the last few days.

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    Hi All,
    Sorry! but this is a long one tonight. But I think I cannot do this any shorter.

    I use a thick super glue. Langton say's to use thin glue, I find that I can control thicker glue better. You must watch for button tops on the masts.

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    Re-drill the mast holes as painting can fill them in.

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    I rub off a little of the paint from the bottom of the masts with fine sand paper. This stops a collar of paint being push up around the mast.

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    I use a cocktail stick to put the glue on the model.

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    By spinning the stick you can keep the glue on the end of the stick as you move into/onto the model. When in place stop spinning and let the glue drop.

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    Do the foremast first. Line up the 3rd top with the jib or first jib if more than one. You may have to bend the jib or the bowsprit a little to made it fit.

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    Make sure the main mast is a little higher than the foremast and a little backwards.

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    Add the mizzen mast.

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    As I have the glue to hand I glue the name to the base (badly this time).

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    I spray the ship and base with matt varnish.

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    I use the pin again to clean the holes on the ship before rigging.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 7eat51 View Post
    How many coats of paint do sails and such usually take? I notice the details are still very sharp, so it seems like the coats must be somewhat thin.

    Good to see you back Rory. I have been missing this thread the last few days.
    Thanks Eric,
    No! I do not thin the paint. Just as it comes from the tin/bottle. I do thin them as they get older. I paint as I have shown, and no more!
    Be safe
    Rory
    Last edited by Devsdoc; 07-30-2013 at 14:56.

  37. #37

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    Rory, it is really coming together nicely.

  38. #38

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    Now it gets to the exciting stage, the rigging. I can't wait!

    Looking good my friend!

  39. #39

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    Good going Rory.
    Just a suggestion for your next one. Use a removable label. That way you can change the ships name for a different scenario.

  40. #40
    Ordinary Seaman
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    Like many have stated before me, this thread makes me want to start another hobby project, though I don't know if my area games are into historical games. Eagerly waiting for the next set of pictures.

  41. #41

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    Great progress Rory, I think you should receive the new "how to" medal! Seconds please?

  42. #42
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    Happily seconded...

  43. #43
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    Great post Rory, your instructions and pictures are well done!!!

  44. #44
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    Thanks for your response and continued sharing Rory. This is very instructive.

  45. #45
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    Thanks Rory. I have much still to learn.
    I build and paint them for gaming but they are still worth making a good job of, eh.
    Bruce

  46. #46
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    Hi! All,
    Thanks for your feed-back Guys.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
    Good going Rory.
    Just a suggestion for your next one. Use a removable label. That way you can change the ships name for a different scenario.
    Oh! Ed, I'm just a sad little man. Once named I can not change it. For me the name is the ship, and the ship the name. For historical battles I would match by Class not name. I may for a one off lay a historical name over the ships name. Sorry! SAD!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce View Post
    Thanks Rory. I have much still to learn.
    I build and paint them for gaming but they are still worth making a good job of, eh.
    Bruce
    Yes Bruce, you are like me. I do try too.

    This is going to be hard! I will try not to repeat myself. So I may miss bits, If you think I have, post me and I will try and re-show.

    The tools for rigging. 3 types of thread, Thick black sewing thread, and a black and lighter colour thin embroidery thread. All man made. Bent tweezers, Cocktail sticks, Nail scissors, Glue and cutters for rat lines

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    All ways dip the thread end into the glue to make the thread end hard. Do not use short bits of thread. Make a loop knot and lay it over the base of the main mast and pull tight.

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    Add glue to the knot with cocktail stick and pull.

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    Go around the mizzen mast under the fighting tops and over the crossjack. Knot.

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    Pull and glue.

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    Lay thick thread next to bowsprit and glue.

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    Cut ends of first thread as close to masts as you can

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    Take the thread thou the hole in the bow.

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    Go over the bowsprit and back thou the hole again.

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    Go over the sprit-yard, under the bowsprit over the aver side sprit-yard and back into the bow hole again

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    Start going over the bowsprit and thou the hole as many times as you can. Knot, pull and glue

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    Hope you understand all this
    Be safe
    Rory

  47. #47
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    Good evening Shipmates,
    I think I'm getting the hang of the photo's now. Sorry for "aver" should be "other". Hope you are getting all this.
    Cut the 2 thin threads away. move the thick thread out of the way of the fore mast. Use a long thin thread and knot, glue and pull at the base of the fore mast.

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    Get both threads and move they back to the main mast. Go under the maintopsail, thick to port and thin to starboard. Put both thru the hole at the main fighting top.

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    Knot around the mast over the fighting top.Pull the thick thread back under the maintopsail and pull and glue. Cut away thick thread when dry.

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    Knot and pull thin thread around mizzen mast at the top of the mizzen topsail and under the top. DO NOT GLUE.

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    Go over the back of the 2 tops and on to the top of the mizzen topgallant. knot, pull and glue. At the topgallant only.

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    Knot, pull and glue at the top of the maintopsail and under the top.

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    Knot, pull (under the fore topsail) and glue, over the fore mast fighting top

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    Make shore you go to the back side of the Jib (stay sail) the side the wind blows from. Knot, pull and glue at the sprit-yard.

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    That is it for tonight the ship should look like this. After you cut off the rest of the thread.

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    By the way I said I would rig the Selafail 74. She has more sails set, so after I have done the standard rigging on the Venera (48). I will use the Selafail for the running rigging, when she has the standard rigging done.
    Be safe.
    Rory
    Last edited by Devsdoc; 08-19-2013 at 18:11. Reason: no photos

  48. #48
    2nd Lieutenant
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    Hi Guy's,
    Been away for the weekend. Just got in, I'm very tried so no post tonight. 400 mile round trip by van does not help to the rigging of ships.
    Be safe
    Rory

  49. #49
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    Excuses, excuses!

    Just kidding Rory, you're a good man for putting all the work in to making a tutorial. Get some rest!

    - James

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whitejamest View Post
    Excuses, excuses!

    Just kidding Rory, you're a good man for putting all the work in to making a tutorial. Get some rest!

    - James
    You can go off people, you know James

    Hi All,
    back to work. Knot, pull and glue some thin thread to the top of the mizzen mast.

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    Go thou the hole at the stern starboard side from the out-side and pull.

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    Take the thread and fish it thou between the mast and the rigging between the top two tops.

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    Pull and work it under the bottom of the 2 tops. Pull, DO NOT GLUE



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    Go thou the hole at the stern port side from the in-side. this is hard take your time..

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    Go up to the top, top lay the thread over the top pull and glue hold for a short time down the starboard side.

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    Go thou the hole on the starboard side again. .

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    Go again thou and under the top as the first time and again thou the port hole from the in-side again.

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    Go up to the top of the mast, Knot, Pull around mast and the end of thread and glue.

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    Go under the top, top of the main mast. Knot, pull and glue.

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    Go under the 2rd top from the top of the fore mast. Knot, pull and glue. Wait a minute and put a spot of glue on the jib sail. Lay the thread on the sail and hold.

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    Add a small thin line of glue along the front edge of the jib and lay the thread on the glue. Knot, pull and glue around the front of the sprit-yard arm.

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    It should look like this after you cut away the extra thread.

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    Be safe
    Rory
    Last edited by Devsdoc; 08-06-2013 at 12:34. Reason: missed a bit

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