As I understand it, it could, but you risk losing many details such as the guns on the sides. Certain details would have to be resized in order to be printed in 1/1000 scale.
Printable View
What I'd describe as a very light pebble dash effect. Very good for simulating the rough sandstone or Terracotta that I like to use.
Rob.
Not doing big things
Some trees for the coast areas
Attachment 49000
Today a little cannon . May be a hugest cannon for 1/1000 , or big one for 1/700
Attachment 49041
Attachment 49042
I well remember turning down several of those for my 25mm AWI troops when we did the battle of Long Island and we needed some siege guns. i will see if I can find them.
Your guns look very well made Ferrante.
Rob.
Just found this one!
I will keep looking but am not sure if I still have the others.
Rob.
Nice cannon Rob. And it looks aged I like the effect . I really like that kind of cannons . But I haven’t seen some similar for 1/1000 made from brass .
Today I received my new fortress kit
Attachment 49049
Glad you like my cannon Ferrante. It looks aged because it is. Must have been in my spares box for about 30 years.
The discolouration is from the flux I used when silver soldering in the trunnions. After some years it goes like that if not cleaned off completely.
However I do have a gun bluing paste which I accidentally found when used on brass sends it aged rather than the steel blue as on rifle barrels for which it is really intended.
Rob.
I did consider it at the time, but the only furnace I had was for Aluminium casting and did not get hot enough for brass casting. I would have needed a blown furnace for that and they were expensive.
Rob.
Attachment 49090
My newest island is coming along.
Work vs playtime Vol.
Casting of any sort is no longer a magical moment for me.
Rob.
Finished this little guy a few days ago.
This is Langton's two gun sloop, part of their Great Lakes War of 1812 line.
Unfortunately I am not sure what ship this could be. On Lake Erie there was a sloop on both the US and British sides. But the USS Trippe carried just one 24 pounder long gun and the HMS Little Belt had three guns, one 12 pounder long gun and two 6 pounder long guns.
I couldn't find record of any sloops on Lake Ontario at all.
With the 15 star US ensign:
Attachment 49097
Attachment 49098
Attachment 49099
Attachment 49100
Attachment 49101
With the Royal Navy red ensign:
Attachment 49102
Attachment 49103
Attachment 49104
Great Job. I like this kind of ships. We need rules to include them on SOG.
I hope some day we have an expansion pack. May be 1812 war, or may be Age of Pirates.
That’s me again
I have more time yesterday and today . And I made this coast are or Island and fortress
Attachment 49105
Attachment 49106
That’s me again
I have more time yesterday and today . And I made this coast are or Island and fortress
Attachment 49105
Attachment 49106
Nice looking island fort Ferrante. I like the sandstone colour of the walls.
Maybe they just intended it as a generic Sloop.
You could always drop Ron langton an E-Mail and ask if he can enlighten you.
A very neat and well constructed rendition bye the way Vol.
Rob.
Today's project was an easy one.
.Attachment 49113
Brig in a Bottle
Vol I missed your post, the ship is nice but I really like what you did with the scenery behind it, I was thinking about using clear pvc to show the sea breaking on my cliffs, did you post any pictures of the making of these.
I did have a quick scan of your blog the other day but didn't see anything.
I couldn't decide what I wanted to do at the base of the cliffs, beach on card, beach on pvc or neither, the jury is still out at the moment.
I have some liquid resin made for railway model makers scenics. i use it frequently to fill moats or stream beds. I also have a bottle by the same manufacturers which says it is specifically for waterfalls and rapids. I have not yet had a cause to employ it, but might just run a trial to see how it performs.
Rob.
Thanks I'll have a look at that. Almost all the coastline and islands that folk make are on a base for obvious reasons of structural integrity. The only jarring note for me, is that they have to paint some of it as sea and it's always a different colour to the sea mat they are using, that was the main reason I thought of using clear pvc but I can see it isn't the perfect solution. Mind you, what is?
If you have a look at my constructions John you will see that they only include the beach, and in the harbour, I even cut out the dry dock for the ship beung masted so that when placed on the mat it looks as if the water is behind the lock gates so that the ship there is floating.
https://sailsofglory.org/content.php?44-Harbours
Rob.
I'd noticed that on the cliffs but not the dry dock. I like what you did with the fallen rocks on the beach as well. I am considering making a separate beach for clandestine landings in some of the coves, lots of possibilities.
It's all personal preference and there's no right and wrong way to do things. For example I've removed my pirates the ones posted at the beginning of April from their black bases and mounted them on clear PVC ones because it means they blend in better on ships decks, desert islands and in the local tavern, that's my preference for these figures. I've heard some folk say that's just lazy and wrong.
At the end of the day if you like what you've done that's all that matters.
I quite agree John.
Whatever floats your boat. Talking to Andrea about his game he is of the same opinion. He has no objections to us messing about with his very carefully thought out rule as long as we enjoy the game.
I actually put my sinking ships on clear because I feel it gives a better impression of a sinking ship.
My harbour is made modular so that I can change it for different situations. It can range from the bustling seaport in the picture to small cove with a hamlet. Even the Fort Morro plugs into that headland so it can be exchanged for a different fort, or just have cliffs in a headland with no fort. Because the harbour wall sits on the blue mat, it can also be changed in shape and function, so as to maximise its usage. Also to prevent that sense of Deja vu which you can get in games which use the same terrain over and over again.
I'm sure that you will come up with some very novel and interesting ideas of your own very soon, which we will all brazenly poach for our own games.
Rob.
This is something I've been thinking about. Cutting the peg off the bottom of the ships, attaching a couple of the small strong magnets and discarding the thick blue bases and using the clear plastic base with the ships wind arcs scribed into the clear plastic with a couple of the same magnets let into it to hold the ships firmly to the base. I think this would give a visually more appealing game but might cause mast breakages due to not having the thick base to get hold of.
My solution for lower profile bases was to take 80 grit sandpaper and sand a blue base until the vertical edges have almost disappeared. Then I finish with 180 grit to scuff the bottom of the blue base, sanding until the vertical sides are flush with the bottom, but not before the 4 stamping circles dissapear.
Then I hold the ship on the clear base in a blue base with no card and sand the peg down.
I crazy glue my ships to their clear bases, but I have a clear scrap base for the sanding process before gluing.
It takes about 15 minutes a base. I did enough for play originally, and now to one or two whenever the mood strikes me. Most of my ships now have low profile bases.
I was concerned about handling, but it doesn't seem to be a problem.
Here's what my bases end up looking like.
Attachment 49136
As you say John, with a thin base the temptation to get hold of the ship by the masts is greater, especially when you get small punters playing and the ships are at arm’s length. However, I do like Dobb's solution. I was toying with the idea of doing a thicker see through perspex base which can hold my ship pegs, and just using them for the games which I intended to photograph. That way I would only need a dozen or so bases and could revert to the official ones for games at the shows.
Rob.
Dobbs I like your solution for the bases .
It looks better than standard ones
I am impressed for the ideas and mods we can do for the ships
Regards
I agree that Dobbs thinner bases are more aesthetically pleasing than the thick ones, but I was thinking of just using the clear part of the base, I think that would mean removing all the peg on the base of the ship, which to be honest I'm loath to do. Robs idea with a thick clear base so you don't have to remove part of the peg is a good one but I suspect that the thickness of the base would be quite visible, it's the edge rather than to top that I think is distracting.
I have some 5mm thick Perspex, if I get time tomorrow I'll try and take a pic of a ship on it to see how well it looks.
Hi John.
Try painting the edge of the perspex with a very pale blue watered down so it is semi transparent and see how that diminishes the outline and also tones the top surface of base into your mat underneath it.
Rob.