Act fast. Supply is limited. Got this from the Sails of Glory Facebook page.
http://boardgamegeekstore.com/produc...w-ability-deck
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Act fast. Supply is limited. Got this from the Sails of Glory Facebook page.
http://boardgamegeekstore.com/produc...w-ability-deck
Order placed. Thanks.
Got two me'self. Since I missed out on the KS I figured I best get to looting.
Debating how many I should order... already have enough for Waves 1 and 2, but waffling over Wave 3. They tell me a six-pack order isn't valid, and if you're doing Two Of Everything per wave and wanting to have a full 10-card set for each ship you need six decks.
TBH you only really need one, if you think about it :happy:
Technically true... but I like the ease of accounting. "Turn the card or put a damage counter on it when that crew's injured, discard the card when ability used up or no longer available."
Now for a Con, I'd make up a handout with all the abilities, the special rules affecting each and their point cost, grease-pencil out the abilities not in use that session, and then have players grease-pencil abilities off as they use or lose 'em.
Then again, I'm the sort who over in Wings wants a separate damage deck (or two, as appropriate to some two-seaters) for each plane in his collection... even thoguh they'll never all be on the table at the same time.
I think they have meds for that :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamondback
LOL It's really more a matter of wanting to be able to package each plane and everything needed to run it up in its own neat little box for when I'm not up to dragging the whole collection around...
i ordered a set last night but not sure about the $1.00 postage to the UK.
That seems very good value.
Tim
Like wise. Ordered two, one for my buddy and myself. $1.00 shipping to Canada. Haven't received a shipping confirmation yet, but it's only been two days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Swamprat33
I separate the damage and movement cards after each game and put them in numerical order to make sure I am not missing any.Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamondback
Yeah, Brian, I do that too. Not just by deck, but package they came from... I remember a con where somebody just wanted to assdemble decks from mine and other people's cards without thought of origin, and when I pointed out that things were getting mixed up and as a collector I wanted to make sure my RDS Double-A and B damage decks were completely RDS cards, it was "well, I can't read that"--so I took over the sorting job.
Also the last time I lent supplies where I wasn't GM'ing, 'cuz I had a base and a few pegs go missing, and this was at that "Good LUCK finding more, 'cuz Nexus JUST folded" point. Ended up parting the plane with the missing base out and buying a replacement.
Crap gets lost at conventions, or grows legs... which is why I'm so anal about auditing everything before it leaves my hotel room for the session, when it arrives for session, last thing before packing up and again first thing upon return from room, and about insisting that anyone who borrows my stuff sign for it on a detailed itemized receipt so I know, if something disappears, who the last person who had it was and thus whose door I need to go knock on for either return or cost of replacement.
Mine just shipped. YEAH!
I have 3 decks already. Do I really need anymore?
I do have two and given that these already allow me to equip 8 ships with the same card, I cannot see the need for more. To be honest, I do wish I had stuck with one and choose to upgrade to the full lot of damage token bags.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BRIAN DUNBAR
I implemented the trick I learned from Keith at Origins. I put a code on the bottom of each card, e.g. "TA1" - T (me) A (A deck) 1 (1st A deck). It makes sorting and inventory management easy. While playing multiple planes, often using the same decks, in OTT, this scheme helped out a lot. For damage decks, I simply put "T".Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamondback
I will figure something out for SoG before Origins.
Just ordered myself two copies, just wonder how long it'll take to ship to blighty
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7eat51
To identify my decks I use a similar system as in my WGF.
Each manoeuvre deck has a round sticker applied, I sleeve all my cards, and then numbered. So my British SOL have an orange sticker and my decks are numbered 1-10 , British Frigates Red sticker, French SOL green sticker and French Frigate a blue sticker.
The stickers are 8mm diameter circles and positioned so the do not cover the arrows.
So now it's just a matter of looking for the numbers at the end of play
I wouldn't think you'd need to mark them for British or French. A "B" deck doesn't care which "B" ship it goes with. Numbering them seems like a pretty good idea, though. I might start doing that.
It really helps at the end of a game to ensure you have all the cards, especially when more than one person supplies decks. After scrambles, we have had folks asking if anyone picked up a card or two inadvertently.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Blozinski
To you guys that have numbered your decks, which side to number have you found most useful and why?
1) The actual face of the card with the plot
2) The generic back of the card
I do the generic back of the card. This way, I can make my code large enough to see it clearly without cluttering up the side with actual game info.
It really works well. As mentioned before, when playing multiple planes/ships, it quickly enables me to check on decks even during play. I know which deck to replace cards to, if a card is in the wrong deck, etc. - this is especially helpful when playing with multiple decks that are the same, for example flying 3 Camels. After the game, it enables a quick check for deck completeness.
You'l get us all thrown out of Vegas:happy: ...Quote:
Originally Posted by 7eat51
And if you are giving hints to your opponent about your concealed moves
I don't mark anything on the card other than an initial, the card deck, and the number of the card deck, not the card number itself. For example, if I am using 3 "A" maneuver decks, one deck is marked TA1, one TA2, and one TA3. All the cards in the respective decks are marked accordingly. Players would not know which card is being played. At the end of a game, I can easily check if I have 22, for example, in each deck, and ensure I have the correct composition of each deck without having to compare the maneuver side. Additionally, when playing multiple planes using the same maneuver deck, I can easily check during the game to ensure I do not have cards from one deck in another - helps keep maneuvering legal, if you will.Quote:
Originally Posted by Avi
As for Vegas, I was stationed there for two years. Never really gambled. When you see a massive new casino built on the profits of a single other casino, you know the odds are against you.
Just got my captains cards, in the absence of the Ares website to refer to, do any of you guys have a copy of the rules/guidelines around captains?
Derek, you will still need the ships, ship & base cards etc to play. Look around for a good price on a starter set, which has everything you will need.Quote:
Originally Posted by devilman9050
And welcome:beer: to the Anchorage from Arizona.
Just ordered a deck. Thanks for the heads up.
Just curious as to how those of you who have the Captain & Crew Ability deck use it.
For average historical battles, what advantages would you give to the English, Spanish, French, US, Swedes, Russians, Turks etc. against one another?
Example: Well Trained Gunners card or cards to the British against all but the US.?
I've only used them in the solo scenarios and they're not based on national affiliations. Basically they're just being used as captain or crew perks earned for completing missions successfully. That might change when the solo 'campaign' kicks off in January 2015?Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner
Derek, go here for rules. http://issuu.com/aresgamesQuote:
Originally Posted by devilman9050