I'm getting ready to try my first attempt at using India Ink to do windows.
If anybody has any guidance it would be appreciated!
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I'm getting ready to try my first attempt at using India Ink to do windows.
If anybody has any guidance it would be appreciated!
Any tips on that one would be very acceptable to me also. The method I was taught for windows in Architectural drawings is not only well out of date, but does not translate well to tiny windows.
Rob.
I paint them using a dark blue metallic.
I have been using a dark blue and spotting a drop of silver in a corner but it don't do it for me Jonas, so I will give your all over silver blue a go.
Rob.
If it's anything like I paint the goggles/lenses on my Ad-Mech (Warhammer 40K) models, I use white as a "base" then I use a transparent blue. I've found if I need a darker styled blue, you would add more of the blue.
If anyone wants, I'll see if I can put pictures together.
If you would be so kind Gary.
Are you at the Regimental AGM next Sunday?
Rob.
I'll be at the AGM next Sunday, and I'll have something for the raffle too.
The example of lenses below show a basic idea of how to do this.
I used a white undercoat, followed up with a transparent blue glaze. The lenses on the hooded chap shows a light coating of the blue, whereas the eye underneath the mask is a heavy coating.
Attachment 47827
Attachment 47828
Attachment 47829
I've also got some Army Painter Gloss Varnish (gives a subtle glass effect in the light), which I use on glass bottles/vials.
The below video shows an example of how to do lenses, you might find other videos more helpful, but this is an example of the above.
https://youtu.be/vLsteSBHEcM?t=895
Very impressive Gary.
Thanks for that. i am going to have to obtain some of those paints.
Rob.
Army painter and vallejo both do a shiny glaze.
Vallejo sell both transparent blue and red paint.
I will try the Army Painter one I think Gary.
Don't get on with Vallejo very well.
Rob.
Thanks for the offer Gary. I can try it out on the Albacores I have to do for Wings as well as The Santisima which I must try to get finished PDQ.
Rob.
I went with Jonas' suggestion and was very satisfied.
Attachment 47883
Attachment 47884
All that remains is clear coat on the lighthouse and some wave crests in the water.
There is shading to the rock (greens, browns and white). It just doesn't show up in the lighting.
Very picturesque Dobbs.
Thanks for your post and ratification of Jonas's method.
I spoke Captain Kiwi yesterday, and he is getting me some of the Army painter ones from his local shop up in Mansfield, which he is bringing down for our monthly game. I will give them a go on my. Santisima and see how I get on with them.
Rob.
:happy:
And to make this post useful I'll illustrate how my methods looks:
https://sailsofglory.org/attachment....chmentid=28807
https://sailsofglory.org/attachment....chmentid=20311
https://sailsofglory.org/attachment....chmentid=22175
https://sailsofglory.org/attachment....chmentid=22168
But to be honest, it's just self promotion...
Saw McDorf yesterday, and he kindly lent me the paints mentioned to try before I buy.
Rob.
I will let you know Gary. Hopefully next week I can get back onto some painting again.
Thanks again for the paints.
Rob.
None of mine are rigged as they get used by punters at shows, but there is a good few here who can fill in the details for you Joseph.
Rob.
The pennants is printed paper. I put both sides next to each other and wrap the paper around a thin metal rod or piece of string. They are glued together using white glue, used for wood. I bend it before the glue dries and then it keeps the shape.
The stays are sewing thread. I use synthetic as that doesn't strech as much. I drill small holes in the ship, ususlly using a 0.5 mm drill, and put superglue on the end of the thread. When the glue dries it makes it stiff and works as a built in needle. I start with the lower stays and then the backstays from aft working forward. Those also form the stays going from the top of the masts.
I think there's a how to somewhere here on the site. If not I probably should make one.
When I do lines for flags at the stern I also use synthetic thread as I always spray my ships with matte varnish after painting and the synthetic does not fluff up like cotton thread.
Your tip about glue on the thread is excellent I will take that on board Jonas.
Rob.