Great progress Rory, I think you should receive the new "how to" medal! Seconds please?
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Great progress Rory, I think you should receive the new "how to" medal! Seconds please?
Happily seconded...
Great post Rory, your instructions and pictures are well done!!! :thumbsup::beer::happy::thanks:
Thanks for your response and continued sharing Rory. This is very instructive.
Thanks Rory. I have much still to learn.
I build and paint them for gaming but they are still worth making a good job of, eh.
Bruce
Hi! All,
Thanks for your feed-back Guys.
Oh! Ed, I'm just a sad little man. Once named I can not change it. For me the name is the ship, and the ship the name. For historical battles I would match by Class not name. I may for a one off lay a historical name over the ships name. Sorry! SAD!:embarass:
Yes Bruce, you are like me. I do try too. :pray:
This is going to be hard! I will try not to repeat myself. So I may miss bits, If you think I have, post me and I will try and re-show.
The tools for rigging. 3 types of thread, Thick black sewing thread, and a black and lighter colour thin embroidery thread. All man made. Bent tweezers, Cocktail sticks, Nail scissors, Glue and cutters for rat lines
Attachment 5991
All ways dip the thread end into the glue to make the thread end hard. Do not use short bits of thread. Make a loop knot and lay it over the base of the main mast and pull tight.
Attachment 5992
Attachment 5993
Add glue to the knot with cocktail stick and pull.
Attachment 5994
Go around the mizzen mast under the fighting tops and over the crossjack. Knot.
Attachment 5995
Pull and glue.
Attachment 5996
Attachment 5997
Lay thick thread next to bowsprit and glue.
Attachment 5998
Cut ends of first thread as close to masts as you can
Attachment 5999
Take the thread thou the hole in the bow.
Attachment 6000
Go over the bowsprit and back thou the hole again.
Attachment 6001
Go over the sprit-yard, under the bowsprit over the aver side sprit-yard and back into the bow hole again
Attachment 6002
Attachment 6003
Start going over the bowsprit and thou the hole as many times as you can. Knot, pull and glue
Attachment 6004
Hope you understand all this
Be safe
Rory
Good evening Shipmates,
I think I'm getting the hang of the photo's now. Sorry for "aver" should be "other". Hope you are getting all this.
Cut the 2 thin threads away. move the thick thread out of the way of the fore mast. Use a long thin thread and knot, glue and pull at the base of the fore mast.
Attachment 6005
Get both threads and move they back to the main mast. Go under the maintopsail, thick to port and thin to starboard. Put both thru the hole at the main fighting top.
Attachment 6006
Knot around the mast over the fighting top.Pull the thick thread back under the maintopsail and pull and glue. Cut away thick thread when dry.
Attachment 6007
Knot and pull thin thread around mizzen mast at the top of the mizzen topsail and under the top. DO NOT GLUE.
Attachment 6008
Go over the back of the 2 tops and on to the top of the mizzen topgallant. knot, pull and glue. At the topgallant only.
Attachment 6009
Knot, pull and glue at the top of the maintopsail and under the top.
Attachment 6010
Knot, pull (under the fore topsail) and glue, over the fore mast fighting top
.Attachment 6011
Make shore you go to the back side of the Jib (stay sail) the side the wind blows from. Knot, pull and glue at the sprit-yard.
Attachment 6012
That is it for tonight the ship should look like this. After you cut off the rest of the thread.
Attachment 6013
By the way I said I would rig the Selafail 74. She has more sails set, so after I have done the standard rigging on the Venera (48). I will use the Selafail for the running rigging, when she has the standard rigging done.
Be safe.
Rory
Hi Guy's,
Been away for the weekend. Just got in, I'm very tried so no post tonight. 400 mile round trip by van does not help to the rigging of ships.
Be safe
Rory
Excuses, excuses!
Just kidding Rory, you're a good man for putting all the work in to making a tutorial. Get some rest!
- James
You can go off people, you know James :happy:
Hi All,
back to work. Knot, pull and glue some thin thread to the top of the mizzen mast.
Attachment 6082
Go thou the hole at the stern starboard side from the out-side and pull.
Attachment 6083
Take the thread and fish it thou between the mast and the rigging between the top two tops.
Attachment 6084
Pull and work it under the bottom of the 2 tops. Pull, DO NOT GLUE
Attachment 6085
Go thou the hole at the stern port side from the in-side. this is hard take your time..
Attachment 6086
Go up to the top, top lay the thread over the top pull and glue hold for a short time down the starboard side.
Attachment 6087
Go thou the hole on the starboard side again. .
Attachment 6088
Go again thou and under the top as the first time and again thou the port hole from the in-side again.
Attachment 6089
Go up to the top of the mast, Knot, Pull around mast and the end of thread and glue.
Attachment 6090
Go under the top, top of the main mast. Knot, pull and glue.
Attachment 6091
Go under the 2rd top from the top of the fore mast. Knot, pull and glue. Wait a minute and put a spot of glue on the jib sail. Lay the thread on the sail and hold.
Attachment 6092
Add a small thin line of glue along the front edge of the jib and lay the thread on the glue. Knot, pull and glue around the front of the sprit-yard arm.
Attachment 6093
It should look like this after you cut away the extra thread.
Attachment 6094
Be safe
Rory
Wow! And to think that this miniature is about 2.5-3" long.
Rory, I think that NASA would have been proud for this level of intricacy.
You know, there is one word that is forbidden in that organization.....
OOPS! :shock:
Good evening Shipmates,
So we go on with the rigging. Now for the main mast. Knot, pull and glue thin thread at the top of the main mast.
Attachment 6095
Go into the hole behind the main mast channel starboard side from the out-side.
Attachment 6096
Lay the thread across the top middle rigging from the mizzen mast (2nd one down). From the in-side of the port side go thou the hole on the main channel.
Attachment 6097
Pull up to the top, top lay the thread across the top and pull and glue.
Attachment 6098
Go down to the starboard side the back from the out-side thou the hole again.
Attachment 6099
Up we go again to the top middle rigging again and again lay it over again.
Attachment 6100
Down the port side and (sorry) from the in-side back thou the hole.
Attachment 6101
Back up to the top of the mast. Knot around the mast and thread, pull and glue.
Attachment 6102
go to the fore mast above the topgallant yard. Knot, pull and glue.
Attachment 6103
Knot, pull and glue the thread on the jibboom/flying jibboom joint.
Attachment 6104
After cutting off the thread ends should look like this.
Attachment 6105
Be safe and good night
Rory
Hey Rory.
I have a question, which you'll probably be getting to shortly, but do you ever wait to put the ratlines on until after the running rigging is done? I'm beginning to think that even with the extra lines it might be easier to put ratlines on last?
Hi Jim,
I would say No. The rat-lines are apart of the standing rigging. It can be hard getting the running rigging around the rat-lines sometimes. I feel it would be harder still to work the hard and unbendable rat-lines into place. I work from the in-side out. I know you have done it last from your postings. I think you where lucky that you where working on big model's. I am not God so I maybe wrong.
Be safe
Rory
Rory, this is great stuff. I must admit, I am looking forward to trying my hand at painting. Rigging is another thing entirely. I look at the size of my hands and the size of the ship and think, "No way." I appreciate your comment, "Don't think of the size, just the rigging. Bit by bit."
Thanks for the reply, Rory. I may give it a go sometime, but for now I'll continue putting the ratlines on between placement of the standing rigging and running rigging.
I just finished another 64 gun ship and I'm almost at the point where I may pass on future running rigging altogether and go with just the standing rigging. I've noticed that running rigging has a tendency to loosen the standing rigging lines and it certainly increases the amount of time it takes to wrap up the ship construction.
Are you sure.....
I know this may be seen as a cheap shot and please take it in good humour, but it made me laugh :happy:Quote:
Originally Posted by Devsdoc
Makes me wonder how many SOG ships I'll butcher:help: before I get it right. Or if I have the patience (ha, ha), just wait and watch others customize their ships first.
Hi Eric,
I find doing the rigging more fun and relaxing than painting. As long as the holes are drilled and clear, think of just one part or mast at a time. I to have large hands. Do the standing rigging only at first on one of your 74,s. As they are big enough and are the biggest number in a fleet, so you can hide the first one. like sheep in a flock.
Be safe
Rory
Jim,
I just love your models. Yes! that can happen! Your ships are your ships, you do what you wish with your ships. I would be very happy to play with your ships any time, any place.
Be safe
Rory
Gaz,
Jane, my better half, laughs. Spend 10 minutes with her and you will know "I'm no God"
Be safe
Rory
Hi Ed,
I have seen your album! :smack: :salute:
Be safe
Rory
Hi Shipmates,
Before I go on. If you have more than one jib sail, you may have to drop this part of the rigging from the main mast to the fore mast to match the 2nd jib sail.
Attachment 6106
I will post more on rigging tonight.
Be safe
Rory
Its me again,
So the last or fore mast. This mast is just the same as the main mast. The only thing different from both is this is the last bit and you have more room to work in.
Attachment 6107
Attachment 6108
Attachment 6109
Attachment 6110
Attachment 6111
Attachment 6112
Attachment 6113
Attachment 6114
Add glue to the end of the flying jibboom, and loop thread around it and pull side wards (port).
Attachment 6115
Add glue to the end of the port side spritsail yard. Loop thread around it and pull towards the ship. From the in-side go thou the hole by the port cathead.
Attachment 6116
Go over the middle port side of the spritsail yard, under the bowsprit. Go over the starboard middle spritsail yard and back to the ship.
Attachment 6117
Go thou the hole by the starboard cathead, from the out-side.
Attachment 6118
Add glue to the end of the starboard spritsail yard. Loop thread around end.
Attachment 6119
Again add glue to the end of the flying jibboom. Loop thread around this, pull down and back.
Attachment 6120
Put glue on the end of the dolphin striker. loop thread around it and pull
Attachment 6121
After you have cut off the lose ends. your ship should look like this.
Attachment 6122
So the next bit will be the rat-lines
Be safe
Rory
Very interested to see the ratlines work, Rory. I think I hate putting those on more than anything in the total assembly. Cheers!
Hi All,
See oops! I did not add this photo to the last post. I had to edit the last post for around 10 minutes before I saw what I had done.
Attachment 6124
Be safe
Rory
Sorry Jim,
I have not done the rat-lines yet, Just the shrouds.
Be safe
Rory
Rory, is your base the same size as SOG, 50x75mm?
Hi Ed.
No! I use Langton bases. This ship is a small 48 gun 2 deck SOL. So I use his 3rd rate base 40mm x 75mm. It maybe a little to big for the size of the ship, but she is a SOL and not a frigate (one deck). For them I use 40mm x 65mm. For unrated ships I use 20mm x 50mm and 1st rate's 40mm x 85mm. It seems he keeps them all the same (rated ships) across, but adds length to each size. 4th rated ships fall between base size's. So I could have used the smaller base for her. But as she is not as fast as a frigate I thought the bigger base best, and more in line with her job. For this one there is no right answer!
If SOG bases are 25mm x 50mm, it's funny that they use smaller bases for a larger scale model ship?
Be safe
Rory
Rory,
Sorry for the confusion. My post should read 50x75mm.
Hi All,
Now for the rat-lines. I start from the middle of the spur. Working outwards I use them so. Lower main, fore, mizzen, upper main, fore and mizzen. On some spurs the upper mizzen is across the top of the spur.
Attachment 6125
Look for the name tag in the bottom left side. This is the right side to be on the out-side, pointing out from the ship. Look for the straight edge on the main mast rat-line, this goes to towards the bow. As do all the rat-lines on that side of the spur.
Attachment 6126
Cut free the first rat-line. I do it in the order as said above. (main)
Attachment 6127
Put the rest to one side. I only do one at a time.
Attachment 6128
Using the bent tweezers and hold the R/L next to the mast.
Attachment 6129
If too long, cut away from the top. The blocks should rest on the channel and the top under the fighting top.
Attachment 6130
Turn the R/L over and add a spot of glue to the top and bottom. As I have only 2 hands, I use the glue straight from the bottle.
Attachment 6131
Lay R/L from the top to bottom, holding the R/L with the tweezers. I also use the closed tweezers to push the R/L to the channel. If you push at the top it can move the R/L around the mast.(bad times) So push the bottom haft of the R/L only.
Attachment 6132
I then move to the fore mast, doing as above again. I find the main mast the hardest to do, as you have less space to work in. So it gets easier as you go.
Attachment 6133
I then do the mizzen R/L.
Attachment 6134
Wait for a minute or two, and do it all over again on the other side.
Attachment 6135
I now do the upper R/L'S. I again start with the main mast. I hate having to cut them to size as I feel they should be made to fit. Fit to the mast under the top, and go to the outer edge of the fighting top. Glue, move around as above.
Attachment 6136
I wait again, turn the ship over and do the other side.
Attachment 6137
I seem to be missing the last photo Back soon.
Rory
5 minutes later, No! Just bad editing on my part. This is the finished ship.
Attachment 6138
Shipmates,
I must now do the standing on the "Selafail 74" before I can start the running rigging. Why! the "Selafail" has more sails set than the "Venera", so will be more helpful. Bad planning on my part. I will do this as fast as I can. I will be back with, as Jane call's it "stringing". I know for some of you this is as far you will wish to go. There is more. But post if you wish and I will answer you. Thanks so far for liking this thread.
Be safe
Rory
You make the ratlines look so easy!!!?? Maybe the more I do them the easier it will get, but I can tell you from my experience that they are incredibly fiddly and love to pop off even if you just touch the bottom. Thanks for the tips and photos.
Wow Rory, you have been busy! I love this thread:salute:. And I have learned a few things I am going to try:hmmm:. Sorry for not commenting for the last week. There was absolutely no data or wyfi where we were:erk:.
Regards,
Vol
Jim,
I cannot paint like you. I try, but no. But I do try. Don't let a piece brass get into your head my friend. I know you will win in the end. Try working up-side down on one side!
Be safe
Rory
Good Vol,
Time for you and your family. I'm so glad you are home, my friend.
Be safe
Rory
Ed,
We play a lot together. We also play apart. Sometimes we need to do our own thing. "Stringing" is one thing Jane thinks is best I do alone.
Be safe
Rory
P.S. I'm one of the luckiest men in the world.
Not long my Shipmates,
I have just finished the standing rigging :thumbsup:. Will do the rat-lines tomorrow :happy:. So hope to start running rigging at the latest next week :salute:. If life does not get in the way. :pray:
Be safe
Rory
Hi All,
Done the rat-lines. Will start running rigging soon
Attachment 6146
Be safe
Rory
Rory, this has been incredibly helpful thus far. I especially like your comments such as "If you push at the top it can move the R/L around the mast.(bad times) So push the bottom haft of the R/L only." This is the type of advice that will save newbies like me a lot of angst. :hatsoff:
The running rigging. I use Rod Langton's book on painting and rigging as a guild. I have made a number of changes which I think help me. I do longer runs with one thread. I use less knots. This in my eyes would help Jims tension problem. I start on the yardarm ends and go around the mast on the opposite side. If I can I always go between the mast and rat-lines. I go over or under the tops as I think is best for the angle of the line I'm working on. As I'm only going for the look of running rigging, I think its O.K. I must say Rods book is my bible and the best £10 I have spent.
I use a lighter colour thread for the running rigging. Add a spot of glue to the bottom front side of the jib. Lay the end of the thread on the glue and press.
Sorry Guys,
NO PHOTOS came up????????? Just lost at hours work. NOT HAPPY :angry:
So! I try Again. I'm doing it in smaller blocks. I'm still :angry: but life goes on. So as I was saying. 1st photo.
Attachment 6170
Pull thou the fore main channel. Pull, knot and glue.
Attachment 6171
Knot, pull and glue thread to the end of the spritsail yardarm.
Attachment 6172
Pull thread under the fore mast topsail and around the opposite side of the fore mast. Between the mast and the rat-lines.
Attachment 6173
Go back to the opposite side spritsail yardarm. Add glue to yardarm pull and loop around arm.
Attachment 6174
O.K. I'm still :angry: Sorry! I will post more later.
Be safe
Rory