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Thread: HMS Spartiate. SOG conversion

  1. #1

    Default HMS Spartiate. SOG conversion

    Hello all,
    Last month I bought my first SOG ship and I have made a conversion. I took some photos about the process of conversion and I have done a reportage.
    I add the link and I hope you like it.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/osisfyff6u...conversion.pdf

    Greetings to all

    Julián

  2. #2
    Admiral of the White
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    Very impressive work, Julian. The ship is beautiful! I don't think you'd ever guess this was originally an SoG ship if one didn't know that before looking?

  3. #3

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    Wow!

  4. #4
    Midshipman
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    Very beautiful ship!

    So you used the masts and a few other parts from the langton metal set and the brass sails are also from there?

  5. #5

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    Yes Arakus,
    I used the masts, sails, lifeboats, ratlines and the poop. I only use the hull of Sail of Glory.
    As Langton scale is 1/1200 and the Sail of Glory is 1/1000, I used for a 74 guns the sails of a three decks of Langton.

  6. #6
    Midshipman
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    Thanks for answer, i love this ship!

    I don't think my ships will look as this gem when i start to enhance them, as i am not so good in this fine tuning jobs anymore.

    Maybe i will use the model with masts and sails and only add some painting and, of course, rigging.

    It's good to see what can be done with this models when a good modder works with them!

  7. #7
    Admiral. R.I.P.
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    That was a really skilled piece of modelling. Well done! Is the new ship representing a particular ship, please?

  8. #8
    Comptroller of the Navy Board
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    [RESTRICTED]

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    IIRC, a specific redetail for the captured HMS Spartiate, which was one of the heaviest-armed Temeraires.

  9. #9

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    HMS Spartiate was the "classe Téméraire" but the British captured him in the Battle of the Nile, forming part of the Royal Navy. It is for this reason that I wanted to keep the French stern but modify the interior with the characteristic piece of British warships.
    Diamondback has mentioned the same about.

  10. #10

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    That beautiful ship will have many gamers scratching their heads. Bravo.

  11. #11

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    Brilliant work...awesome

  12. #12

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    Nice ship conversion, Julian.

  13. #13

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    Thanks!!!

  14. #14
    Midshipman
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    Extremely well done,

    wish I had the time, skill, patience or money.

  15. #15
    First Naval Lord
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    Very nicely done indeed Julián. I know you said in the write up that it was not about the pant brands, but would you mind sharing the brand and colors you used on this ship? The colors are very nice and natural looking, but still capture the colorful nature of these ships.

    I was under the impression that ship cannons were typically black, but I like how you have painted them silver here so they stand out.

    With your skill at detailing the SGN ships, I would suggest you try some of the AA brass ratlines. They are much finer in detail than the Langton ratlines ;)

    Quote Originally Posted by Cool Breeze View Post
    I just didn't want to be seen as the, "Thread Pirate Roberts" and get too far off topic.

  16. #16

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    Hello The Royal Hajj,

    The colors I use are of three different brands:
    Game Color, Model Color and Citadel.
    To paint the deck, I use:
    First: TAU LIGHT OCHRE (CITADEL)
    Second: ink wash Charred Brown (GAME COLOR)
    Third: I light the TAU LIGHT OCHRE (CITADEL)
    Fourth: I light with Bronzed Flesh (CITADEL)

    To paint the guns:
    First: any metallic color
    Second: black ink
    Third: dry brush with any metallic color but a clearer range as above (not mixed with white)

    To paint the side of the boat:
    First: TAU LIGHT OCHRE (CITADEL)
    Second: ink wash Charred Brown (GAME COLOR)
    Third: I light the TAU LIGHT OCHRE (CITADEL)
    Fourth: YRIEL YELLOW (CITADEL)

    I use the black color of the brand Model Color because it is matte and does not give any shine to ship.

    With practice and patience, you will obtain good results.

    Regarding the ratlines, I'll consider for future models. But I have understood that the ratlines Langton are more resistant. It is also true that the SOG look much more real.

  17. #17
    Retired Admiral of the Fleet
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    Lovely work, Julián -

    Thank you for the information as well.
    “You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation.” ― Plato

  18. #18

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    Incredibly excellent work!

  19. #19
    Ordinary Seaman
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    Very nice work, comrade

  20. #20
    Midshipman
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    Amazing work!!! Your ships are outstanding!!!
    Would like to see more of your work!

  21. #21
    Admiral of the White
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky View Post
    Amazing work!!! Your ships are outstanding!!!
    Would like to see more of your work!
    Be prepared to be amazed! His work is incredible.

    http://modeljship.com/en/

  22. #22

    Default

    Great website and models Julian (cant figure how to put the accent on your "a" ). Very tempting...wrong scale though

  23. #23

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    Scale 1/1200 is a bit smaller than the 1/1000 but the difference is minimal.
    I left a blog that talks about it and has photos comparatives.

    http://horseandmusket2.blogspot.com....del-ships.html

    Still, the HMS Spartiate is a SOG scale 1/1000.

  24. #24

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    This is not the way to save me money...

  25. #25

    Default

    I do like Julián's style. He helps support our hobby by buying from SOG, Langton, Citadel, game Color, hopefully Anchorage, and the companies that make the tools and equipment he uses to improve his models.
    Keep the money (and vodka) flowing to improve the economies.

  26. #26
    First Naval Lord
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redcoat View Post
    Hello The Royal Hajj,

    The colors I use are of three different brands:
    Game Color, Model Color and Citadel.
    To paint the deck, I use:
    First: TAU LIGHT OCHRE (CITADEL)
    Second: ink wash Charred Brown (GAME COLOR)
    Third: I light the TAU LIGHT OCHRE (CITADEL)
    Fourth: I light with Bronzed Flesh (CITADEL)

    To paint the guns:
    First: any metallic color
    Second: black ink
    Third: dry brush with any metallic color but a clearer range as above (not mixed with white)

    To paint the side of the boat:
    First: TAU LIGHT OCHRE (CITADEL)
    Second: ink wash Charred Brown (GAME COLOR)
    Third: I light the TAU LIGHT OCHRE (CITADEL)
    Fourth: YRIEL YELLOW (CITADEL)

    I use the black color of the brand Model Color because it is matte and does not give any shine to ship.

    With practice and patience, you will obtain good results.

    Regarding the ratlines, I'll consider for future models. But I have understood that the ratlines Langton are more resistant. It is also true that the SOG look much more real.
    Thanks for that sir!
    Quote Originally Posted by Cool Breeze View Post
    I just didn't want to be seen as the, "Thread Pirate Roberts" and get too far off topic.

  27. #27

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    don't mention it!

  28. #28
    Able Seaman
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    Julián do have more details on how you Nader the waves?
    Regular paper, tissue paper, white glue, flour?
    Technique on making it natural
    Thanks. I'd like to do this for my ships too.

  29. #29

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    Materials:

    toilet paper
    white glue
    blue dye or blue paint diluted
    water
    varnish
    paint (dark blue, black and white)
    brushes (brush, brush detail)

    Procedure:

    In a can, cut the toilet paper into pieces and strips.
    Gradually add water and stir until a crumbly dough. (if there is excess water you can add more paper or drain)
    Add white glue in the mix (it is the cementing element).
    Finally add dye.
    Stir everything until a more or less homogeneous mixture.

    The application is made using tweezers. Deposit some pulp on the basis of the ship.
    Using a stick or something thin and elongated for spread and shaping the waves. In principle, the waves seem rounded crest and will have very little peak, do not worry, when the water evaporates the paper pulp will stay in tip.
    Let dry (estimated time: glue drying time)
    Once dry, we can cut irregular edges of the paper pulp using a cutter.

    Painted.

    First we have to seal the pulp. For this we use varnish (not use spray varnish). Use a dense varnish that covers the gaps and irregularities of the pulp. Give as many layers as necessary.

    Paint the base of black .
    Mix black and dark blue for the parts of the valley of a wave.
    Use dark blue for the rest of the wave.
    Use white for the foam.

    I hope the tutorial will serve,
    A greeting,
    Julián.

  30. #30
    Able Seaman
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    Great thanks ver much.
    Before my post I tried tissue paper so I was on the right track.
    When you say paint the base black you referring to areas with no waves?

  31. #31

    Default

    You have to paint ​​of black whole base as a primer after you have to paint ​​progressively darker to lighter. The dark parts of the sea are the parts of the valley and the clearest parts are the wave crests. And to top it with white paint to make the foam.

  32. #32
    Able Seaman
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    Thanks
    Oh boy the way great work.
    You've set the standard for all us moders. Of which we try to strive for.

  33. #33

    Default

    Thank you for your words.

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