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Thread: Drills

  1. #1
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    Default Drills

    Every solution I hear to various problems with the minis involves a Drill.

    I do not have one, and I do not have that much money to hand.

    What drills are recommended, and which should not be screened near an open flame?

  2. #2
    Landsman
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    working on this kind of plastic ("softer" than metal cast) you can easily use hand drills. I bought mine for 8 euros (about 6 dollars), and you can find the bits (even of 0.8 mm) in shops.
    I have this one i use on both plastic and aluminum miniatures and i'm very happy about it -> http://shop.thearmypainter.com/produ...oductGroupId=5 (first product)

    I also have the mini-dremel (an electric drill for precision cutting or engraving) but i don't like it for these kind of works: even the lowest speed is too much and burns the plastic, and I always prefer the "manual" one in order to achieve more precision on the width and on the depth.

  3. #3

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    Check this web site. They often run sales that include drilling tools and bits.

    http://www.micromark.com/

  4. #4
    Admiral of the White
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    Can't add much to what's already been suggested, but if you start with any small drill that you can twist with your fingers or a hand held grip and work up to the size needed for the masts (or a pin inserted in the masts) you should be fine.

  5. #5

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    Chris, if you have a Harbor Freight hardware store, they have a set for about $6.

    Also, this website looks interesting....
    http://www.dhgate.com/store/product/...3-1|3423754075

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    OK, bear in mind I know nothing of the subject (god, I wish my HS had a Shop Class...): These drills are all manually-powered, not electric?

  7. #7
    Admiral of the White
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    Quote Originally Posted by csadn View Post
    OK, bear in mind I know nothing of the subject (god, I wish my HS had a Shop Class...): These drills are all manually-powered, not electric?
    Manual for me. Regular drill bits you get at the hardware store. At some point you may need to use a set of pliers if your fingers aren't strong enough? Sometimes the plastic is very resistant.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by csadn View Post
    OK, bear in mind I know nothing of the subject (god, I wish my HS had a Shop Class...): These drills are all manually-powered, not electric?
    Electric drills can be hard to control and mess up what your drilling real quick. Better working slow and easy with finger drills so you don't ruin your model.

  9. #9

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    CASDN, what you want is a Pen-Vise a small hand held hobby drill. Any hobby shop that has models and/or model railroad supplys should carry them. They will also have the drill bits. Per the name this sounds like something that holds things together, but its actually a drill that looks like a pocket pen. They often even have pocket holders like a pen. Some of them come with the bits in the handle. But the better quality ones the pen-vise and bits are sold seperately. They are very inexpensive, a few bucks.

    You'll want to stay away from Dremels unless you have a Dremel press.

    The hole for these mast repairs don't have to be very deep, so hand drilling gives the control you'll want.

    Bob

    Here is link with a photo of the tool:

    http://www.us-aircraft.com/modeling/tools/pen-vise
    Last edited by HMS Lydia; 06-10-2014 at 12:15.

  10. #10
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    Bought mine last week for about 6 euro's , the drillbits are more expensive. But trust me its all worth it.
    I agree that a hand drill is the thing you need with this sort of modelling work.

    Look online at hobby stores or hardware stores which sell specific tools.

  11. #11
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    I just used epoxy to fix broken masts on two different ships. So far so good.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightmoss View Post
    At some point you may need to use a set of pliers if your fingers aren't strong enough?
    Strength isn't the problem -- my hands tend to get sweaty easily, which ruins grip.

    Does anyone have any experience with this: http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/tools...dy-drill-74041 ?

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by teacherdan View Post
    I just used epoxy to fix broken masts on two different ships. So far so good.
    I used superglue and it seems to have worked fine with no secondary breakages yet. I'm very much the keep it simple as soon as you allow power tools, drills, sharp implements near me...well it all ends in tears.

  14. #14
    Admiral of the White
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    Quote Originally Posted by csadn View Post
    Strength isn't the problem -- my hands tend to get sweaty easily, which ruins grip.

    Does anyone have any experience with this: http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/tools...dy-drill-74041 ?
    No, I've never seen that item before. If you're hands get too sweaty to hold a drill you might want to check into the device Bob describes above. I like the wooden handle variety. Something like thiis:

    http://www.amazon.com/Clock-Drilling...+wooden+handle

    You control the speed and the pressure.

  15. #15
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    I have been reading customer reviews of micro-drill bits on Amazon.co.uk and it appears that some are not very sharp and break easily. Does anyone have a recommendation for reliable bits, please?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naharaht View Post
    I have been reading customer reviews of micro-drill bits on Amazon.co.uk and it appears that some are not very sharp and break easily. Does anyone have a recommendation for reliable bits, please?
    David, this is what I bought via Amazon. They aren't cheap, but they are still sharp and functioning very well. They will break if you drop them to the floor from a distance, but not likely if from your hand onto a table? There are other brands out there and much cheaper too I'm sure, but they've worked well for me so far.

    http://www.amazon.com/Tungsten-Carbi...cro+drill+bits

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    . o O ( Must -- not -- start -- quoting -- that -- _Monty -- Python_ -- sketch.... )

    >;)

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nightmoss View Post
    David, this is what I bought via Amazon. They aren't cheap, but they are still sharp and functioning very well. They will break if you drop them to the floor from a distance, but not likely if from your hand onto a table? There are other brands out there and much cheaper too I'm sure, but they've worked well for me so far.

    http://www.amazon.com/Tungsten-Carbi...cro+drill+bits
    this is all new to me, so I bought these drills at Jim's recommendation. I've done three successful repairs. Each one has been a bit better, but all are presentable and quite strong. I'm not handy, so it's a bit stressful, but I've just taken my time and followed the suggestions Jim posted.

    It is true that the price of the bits works out to $9 for each of the three ships I've fixed. But now I not only have the bits, I also have some peace of mind knowing I can potentially fix any breakage in the future

    A couple of things I did learn:
    - the smallest ones (0.2-0.3mm) are fragile. Don't try to use them to drill to any great depth, because they will snap. Use the smallest ones just to start a very shallow pilot hole that is centered nicely. Then use the bigger sizes to actually drill to any depth.
    - the biggest ones (0.6mm) are only barely big enough to accommodate the straight pins my wife uses for sewing. On the non-pointed end I've had to work them in with needlenose pliers. It's worked out ok for me, and gives a very snug fit. But you could consider looking for a set that goes up to 0.8mm

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fredmiracle View Post
    this is all new to me, so I bought these drills at Jim's recommendation. I've done three successful repairs. Each one has been a bit better, but all are presentable and quite strong. I'm not handy, so it's a bit stressful, but I've just taken my time and followed the suggestions Jim posted.

    It is true that the price of the bits works out to $9 for each of the three ships I've fixed. But now I not only have the bits, I also have some peace of mind knowing I can potentially fix any breakage in the future

    A couple of things I did learn:
    - the smallest ones (0.2-0.3mm) are fragile. Don't try to use them to drill to any great depth, because they will snap. Use the smallest ones just to start a very shallow pilot hole that is centered nicely. Then use the bigger sizes to actually drill to any depth.
    - the biggest ones (0.6mm) are only barely big enough to accommodate the straight pins my wife uses for sewing. On the non-pointed end I've had to work them in with needlenose pliers. It's worked out ok for me, and gives a very snug fit. But you could consider looking for a set that goes up to 0.8mm
    Excellent follow up advice. I've noticed that some of the pins I'm using fit fine and others are a bit of a struggle. I think going up to 0.8mm is what I'll be doing now too.

  20. #20
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    To keep it simple, I just drilled a hole using my electric drill and the smallest bit it came with. No fuss, no muss, worked just fine.

  21. #21
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    I fixed several of my ships using a pin vice (a tiny little hand drill). Here's one at Tower Hobbies: http://shop.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&P=WR&I=LXFJX8 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFJX5&P=SM

    Had a buddy try to do this with a dremel and it melted the deck. I'd definately go with a manual tool that you can use slowly and carefully.

  22. #22
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    Arrr! Yesterday I got my starter set and what? HMS Defence has got broken one of the masts!
    Last edited by C.F. de Galarza; 07-22-2014 at 01:43.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.F. de Galarza View Post
    Arrr! Yesterday I got my starter set and what? HMS Defence has got broken one of the masts!
    Have you contacted your retailer?
    “You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation.” ― Plato

  24. #24
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    I use a electric dremel tool all the time, I am an experienced modeller (30+ years or so give or take a decade :) Using them requires a hand unit , but easy to do. To avoid melting just drill a little at the time to give the bit time to cool down. Also to make good masts, use round wooden toothpicks , they are sturdy and if you cut the sections you require square then the end provides a good attachment point for the repair. I repaired a Montagne last weekend with a toothpick sanded it down a bit and cut to length making sure the ends were square and glue the mast section to the toothpick. I just use regular superglue.

    Shane

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7eat51 View Post
    Have you contacted your retailer?
    Yes, I wrote to him. He will try to contact with publisher in next week. I want play but I must wait
    Last edited by C.F. de Galarza; 07-23-2014 at 01:09.

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